Rob, sent me this article from his notes from this same trip that he did in Feb and March of 2006. I had read these notes years ago but had lost the article. This was during a time when they were still trying to get the Lab loop up and going. Still amazing how many of the observations and experiences were similar to this last trip and than the differences. Enjoy RR
Hello Everyone,
I would like to start by thanking all of you for your support and best wishes while on our journey around Quebec and Labrador. This is to be a day-by-day account of our trip with as much detail as I can. I am not a writer so bear with me on this.
This is the experience’s on our trip. The few people have ever done this trip may have different experiences based on the weather, trail conditions and information. I will say that for most of the trip a WELL-prepared advanced Snowmobiler can do this trip using guides and the snow bus (we did not however). I feel that there are people that have offered information about areas of this journey that never actually did it. There are major discrepancies with their accounts of trails, lakes, landmarks, and the biggest mileage (one was off by a 100 miles). There are areas of this trip that the locals do not ride and I would not do again if I was faced with the same conditions. This is Labrador and as much as people would like the glory of saying they have done it, this is an extreme environment and could easily cost someone there life if not well prepared. Do your own research, make contacts, rely on your self, trust yourself and lead yourself. If everything went well this would still be a hard trip, just from the lack of grooming and signage alone. The groomer’s in these areas have large area’s to do. When they say just groomed, to them it means that is has been done in the last few weeks. As I am typing this very post, 3-16-06 we received word from Tammy in Goose Bay that there is a group from Ontario that is trying this trip now and have had a very hard go of it thus far. They have hired Bruce from Rigolet (who you will meet later in this story) to guide them on the trail from Rigolet to Goose Bay. They must have been unprepared or they have had a bad run with the weather as this section was one of our easiest days.
The fun really started before leaving on this trip, as many of you know. I have had problems with my 1000 Renegade most of the season. On the original day we were supposed to leave, I lost the motor in my sled while in a test session, the trip ended up getting delayed again Matt and Jim were so anxious to leave, that they suggested I take one of my 121” track sleds. There was no way I was going to Labrador on a 121” anything let alone a 600 SDI. We had decided that our new departure would be on Tuesday. I purchased a 06 800X Renegade for the trip on Sunday (Thanks Dave). We were getting down to the wire and still had some loose ends that we needed to wrap up. Such as the satellite phone which was supposed to be handled by one of the other guys. It came down to a gut feeling of his that, we would not really need it. (Do not try this trip without one as he found out) My wife drew the line in the sand if you will “you will not leave until you have a Satellite phone” so off she went to get one. The next issue was gas. When we went to load to leave, the boys had only made provisions to carry 2.5 gallons extra on Matt’s 06 M-7 LTD 153” and 3 gals on Jims 06 1000X Renegade. After insisting that we also take a 2.5 gallon can that I had bought two of, fearing this very situation. Jim and I could now carry 6 gallons extra on each Gade using two-quart oil containers once empty. We started with the 2.5 gallon cans full of oil (this is important later). Matt had made provisions to carry two quarts of oil, and as you, cat guys know that is not enough. My comment to Jim was “if you ever want to see a guy spend money on oil watch Matt this trip.” Some of the other items we were carrying are bow saws, axe, pruning saw, tool kits, first aid kit, survival kit, tent, flares, tin cups, sturno, starter logs, butane lighters, candles, MRE’S two each, Penicillin, Demerol, beef jerky, protein bars, sewing kit, two spare belts each, extra plugs, spare desk cords, gauntlets, spare gear, cloths, rain suits, spare helmet parts, spare Collett, along with other items. Jim and I ran two sets of bags and I had a backpack so as you can guess we were heavy. We are now ready to start our adventure.
Day one, February 28th
We left here around 10 A.M. on Tuesday morning. We had decided that today would be a driving day and our destination would be Riviere-du-Loup. We decided that this would be the best and would give us a short day after getting off the boat in Matane on our last day. We had also all been sick up to this point, so another day to rest would help as well. We stopped at Jackman Power Sports to get some last minute supplies and check on my 1000 Gade. We rolled into Riviere-du-Loup around 4:30 P.M.
We got checked in and got keys to the heated garages that they offer at the Universal Hotel. We then went out back to unload the sleds. We took the Ski Doo’s out and began to pull the 153” out of my 22’ trailer (no reverse, again important to keep in mind) when I realize this is going to be a long trip. I asked Matt “is the brake off?” a simple reply of “opps” says it all. We get back to the room to find that Jim had lost the room key. We decided that Jim would no longer be in charge of keys. After dinner I installed a Collett Communicator on Matt’s helmet, we had a couple of cocktails and went to bed. We called for a 5 A.M. wake up call.
Day 2, March 1st
Overcast and -8F 260miles Riviere-du-Loup to Port-Cartier
We were up at 5 am, dressed, and out the door by 5:30 a.m. We headed off to the new Relais on trail TQ 5 in Saint-Marcellin for coffee and breakfast. We spent a little to long there and then we are off to meet the boat in Matane for a 2pm crossing (they want you there 1 hour early). We rolled into Matane at 12:30pm with time to spare, Jim and I looked back, and Matt was nowhere around. I asked Jim “when did you see him last?” He replied, “He was right behind me at the road crossing” Matt ended up following the wrong group of sleds into town. Jim and I decided that it might be best to keep Matt between us for the rest of the trip. We fueled the sleds and made a quick stop at Wal-Mart for a camera battery before we headed to the ferry. As we get to the dock the smaller of the ferries is trying to leave but can’t get thru the ice, after many tries it came to a stop 1500 feet from the dock. The small ferry is stuck in the ice. The N.M. Camille-Marcuox a larger ferry that can carry 120 vehicles is on its way into port. After docking unloading and reloading, we were off. The Marcoux makes several tries to free the smaller ferry by running by it on both the starboard and port sides. The boat is finally unlodged from the ice and it follows the Marcoux out to the Saint-Laurent. Jim and I debate the conditions of the trails and terrain that we are about to ride, it seems that we have very different views as to what we are going to encounter on or trip. This would be why he had suggested that I run the 121”. The crossing usually takes 2 hours and 15 mins but due to helping the other boat, we were late. We docked and were off again at 5:30 pm with 80
Day 3 March 2nd
Heavy overcast -20F 250 miles Port- Carttier to Havre-Saint-Pierre
While putting our bags on we decide that it was a bit cold out so figured we would give it some time, have some coffee, and toast before heading out. We pulled out around 6:30am even though the temperature hadn‘t seemed to change any. The trails as far as the Moisie River were beautiful. Once across the Moisie River there were no markers or grooming the trail just ended. We doubled back to the store on the other side of the river. She told us that the trail was not open from there to Riviere-au-Tonnerre, which was to be our next gas stop and from there it would be open. While Jim and I review our options Matt is inside arranging a tow truck, (Jim and I are not aware of this). Dblacks, Dave Jim and I ran this trail past this point last year, so Jim and I decide that we are somewhat familiar with the trail and decide to press on. I also felt that we needed to get used to finding our way because there was going to be more of this to come. Still no Matt, I enter the store “are you coming or what?” he replies, “I ’m having her call a tow truck” I respond “no your not, let’s go were riding out”. Very unsure of this plan he put on his helmet and off we went. It was tough to find our way breaking trail; we chased camp trails and looked for any old sign’s or markers. We arrived at Riviere-au-Tonnerre to find gas but no groomer or signs had been there all year. We had been told that Havre-Saint-Pierre had been out just south and north of town. So we headed off to try to find our way again. With daylight closing fast and still no maintained trail we opt for the snow covered road until we reached Mingan an Innu (native) community. It was a very strange place we top off our sleds and asked where the trail was. We went about 2 miles down this trail, when I decided this was not our trail and stopped to turn around. As we do a Native man of 17 years, old or so slides up beside us, he motions for us to follow him. While following him I noticed that he was wearing only a ball cap, sunglasses, blue jeans, and tennis shoes holly tough it is well below 0F. He brought us to the trail where we rode groomed trails for the next 25 miles into Havre-Saint-Pierre. We were short of our goal for the day due to the trails not being open; we had planned to be in Natashquan another 100 miles east. The terrain has changed so much today that you cannot really explain it. It has become very vast and open. Jims sled started having the same troubles as my 1000. It happened twice just today. At one point I did not see a big drift and darn near went over the bars. The 153” blew a few corners but for now, all is good. We made it to the Hotel just as the clerk had locked the door. We got our room and settled in for a cocktail (did I mention that we are also carrying alitte Rum) Jim and I come to the same thought, why are we doing this trip and for so many days? As the Rum flows, the thought fades. The words I was waiting to hear straight from Jim “you never would have made it thru on a short track today” Bingo, Now it is starting to set in that maybe he has underestimated this trip a little. We called a cab. The driver Theo was very informative about the area. The population of the town is about 3500. He dropped us at a great restaurant where the food was great and the server, Julie was witty as well. Jim’s phone does not work to call home. We had a great day. We were off to bed with a 5:30 am wake up call.
Day 4 March 3rd
Very overcast +20F 245Miles Havre-Saint-Pierre to Chevery
Well we got up on time and debated whether we should ride our sleds out or get trucked out. The trail was only going to be groomed and marked for a few miles out of town. It was my opinion that we ride out and deal with what we were handed. Jim and Matt were leaning towards getting trucked out. I tried to tell them that by the time we organized this and dealt with three of us plus a ramp truck driver that two of us were going to have to ride on the sleds on the back of the ramp truck for 100 miles, we would be there. So we decided that we were going to go by sled. We were locked out of the lobby so the continual breakfast was not going to happen. Jim and I do not do well without coffee. We finally leave by sled at 7:00am. The trail was unbelievable just what the doctor ordered; keep in mind that we had expected to have good trails the whole way to Natashquan the day before. 20miles, 30miles, 40miles, wow were doing well. Just as Jim and I laughed and commented that we were gald we had chosen to ride out the groomed trail ended. We were back to finding our way with what ever means possible. At this point, we were about 200 miles past where any of us have ever ridden before on this trail. So without to much time wasted we hit the road again. We could not wait to get to Natashquan, where the road ends any time of year. The Quebec government maintains the trail from there to Old Fort or Vieux-Fort (Quebec border) it has to be groomed or so we were told. The trail is the only means of travel (other than small plane) to these parts until the supply boats begin to run in April. As we make our way down the side of the road, Jims sled quits two more times. Now my mind is in overdrive. If it quits all together anywhere between Natashquan and Goose Bay we are going to have a long delay getting it fixed, as there is no road out until Goose Bay. The road that begins in Blanc-Sablon and goes to Cartwright is only accessible by the ferry from Newfoundland, which does not run again until April. In the winter, it is also closed from Red Bay to Lodge Bay. We made our way down the road to Aguanish. In Aguanish we were able to get on the trail again but no coffee or meal. (We were however able to buy more Rum) The trail was marked but not groomed. We then headed to Natashquan (which is another Innu reserve) where the map says we can get coffee and food. We got to Natashquan and stopped to ask a fellow along the trail about food and coffee, he replied “no restaurant here but there is a store.” We headed off to get a coffee at the store. After circling the village, not finding the store, we decided that we were better off to hit the trail and try again in the next town. At this point, I took a deep breath as the road that had helped us so much ends. From here on in there were no bailouts. While leaving town we are caught behind a large group of Innu, which slows us down for about 20 miles. They stopped and we headed on, now we were on the Government maintained trail. Well Jim said it best “a blind man with 30 foot stick could find his way on this trail.” It was amazing I never have seen anything marked even close to this. There was no grooming , at this point it was clear what we were in for the next 300+ miles until we got to Labrador. The next village we stopped at was English speaking. Kegaska has a population of about 300 people. We stopped at the Relais owned and operated by Phil and Tammy. They are great people. They also own the store. Phil is also a fishermen. They answered all our questions and there were many. They explained more about the supply boats, travel in the area, and schools. The kids in They explained more about the supply boats, travel in the area, and schools. The kids in this village leave home from the 9th grade thru 12th grade and live in dorms in the village of Chevery 90 miles away. They have 6 miles of roads in town. They own cars and trucks but there is no access to any other roads. They have to bring cars and such in by barge. Once snow arrives in these villages, none of the roads are plowed. Phil explained to us, that winter is liberating for them. They can easily travel from village to village. He also told us that we should stay in Chevery. The next village was an Innu reserve, which was not much of a place to stay. After getting coffee, a great bowl of soup, and a full tank of gas we were off to Chevery. This was our first cup of coffee with Grand Mere milk, it was not very good. The village of La Romaine was, as Phil had stated, not much. The amount of lakes that we rode to complete our travel to Chevery was surreal to say the least. We pulled into Chevery around 4:30 or so. While looking for gas Jim stops to ask a local “where is gas station?” as the man points at his other hand holding the gas nozzle he replies, “Right here” (you had to be there, way too funny). We headed to the motel to find the bar and restaurant. They gave us a room and told us to come back for dinner at six. That works for us time for a cocktail and shower before dinner. After a warning from Jim to be careful on the floor (tile) of the room because we had tracked snow in and the floor was wet, Matt landed flat on his can. None of us had cell service so we took out the satellite phone to call home. It was a night to remember. We had drinks and dinner with the owners daughter and son in law (Jody and Wesley) as the owners where gone to camp, this is a pattern that repeated itself in all these areas of Quebec and Labrador. Jim and I still struggled to understand the need to get away when you live in a remote village with a population of about 600 people. Chevery is not even accessible by supply boat so they have their supplies dropped in Harrington Harbour and barge them in. They have a 21-mile sandy beach in Chevery. Wesley gave us jars of canned crab from his catch the year before. Wesley was great with all the questions we asked, he explained that in almost all the coastal villages that the men leave to work for the summer and come back in the winter. Most people collect EI (Employment Insurance) which pays them 1000 dollars every two weeks. Wesley works year round for the town. Poly the cook fixed us a great meal. As it turns out, she was the sister of a guy we met on the ferry ride from Matane. We spent the rest of the evening drinking and playing darts. A great time was had by all. It was a late night to bed.
Day 5 March 4th
Very overcast 15F 140 miles Chevery to L’anse-au-Clair
Well we asked for 5:30 a wake up call instead Wesley had opened the door and asked, “Should I shovel the snow on you or use the snow blower?” It was a short night. We packed up, had coffee and eggs and were on the trail by 6:30am. Well we did not get very far before we found the sled of a drunk Innu that had left the bar the night before. We took a quick look around and on we went. I had not traveled more than 25miles for the day when I blew a belt with no warning on a lake crossing. After about 45 minutes of taking turns digging out the cords from behind the clutch, we felt we had it all out and pressed on. Since we left Port Cartier, we have seen very few travelers in a day, maybe one or two if lucky. A tree stripped of limbs and placed every 25 feet marks the trials here. Where they cannot due to rock they build, these little tee pees for the lack of knowing what else to call them. They are three on the ground and three upright tied where they cross. We rode miles and miles and miles of lakes, rivers, salt-water bays, today. I would dare to say that we rode more water than land by a fair margin. It was a very overcast day making it hard to see. This made it hard to enjoy. The terrain is more and more rock, and more and more bearen. We all struggle to come up with a way to explain the terrain, we finally settle on the moon with snow. We reached Old Fort or Vieux-Fort at 1:30pm. We went to fuel the sleds, and an old fellow named Garland came out to unlock the old pump. As he walks towards us, he asked, “You boys aren’t headed for the woods are you?” After the third time he asks, I asked, “Why where is the trail?” well there is no trail this year as the Sea Ice is not safe. There in the dooryard of the station is a crew cab with a four-place trailer, loaded however; it is the Ski-Doo dealer dropping a sled to a guy riding up from Saint-Augustin. He made a call to Chad of the Northern light Inn to tell him we needed a ride. While waiting Jim and I spring into action with the questions about the village, power, supplies, population, work, housing, and the fish plant. Garland did his best to fill our eager minds. Chad showed up around 3:00pm and we were off to L’Anse-au-Clair Labrador. Along the way, he pointed out the bay that is usually the trail. It would have been one wet ride. We fill his ear with our trip up to this point and the poor signage we have had. He is trying hard to promote riding Labrador. He wants us to have a good ride, so once we get back to his hotel he makes some calls to see what we are in for. We settled in for a cocktail and rejoiced in the fact that we were in Labrador. As we waited for dinner, Chad treated us to some pan-fried Cod. He also gave us each a shirt that says simply “Only the Experienced Ride Labrador” then tells us that it is not looking much better for us as a big storm was to the north all day and expected to be there the next day. He explained that the groomers in Labrador have huge area’s to cover and some trails may only see a groomer a few times a year. He tells us that the Cartwright groomer had passed on the land trail to Rigolet and it took them 6 days to get to Lake Melville and 3 days to get back on a 140-mile trail. This was a new trail two years ago and marked for the first time just last year. That was the first time that the groomer had ever been on that trail. They made the trail so that the travelers could get from Cartwright to Ringlet without having to hire a guide and ride the sea ice. He thought that it would be our first chance at a good trail. He also explained that they had 56 inches of snow the week before and not much before that so it was making things hard. He insisted that when we reached Red Bay we ride the road to Lodge Bay, as the trail across the barrens was not well marked and with the storm, we would not find our way. Matt’s beat up at this point, it is his first ride of the year. He went to bed early. He needs it tomorrow is a big day.
Day 6 March 5th
Overcast blowing snow 30F 290 miles L’anse-au-Clair to Cartwright
We asked for a 5:30 wake up only to find that we could not get any coffee or breakfast until 7:00am. Ordinarily we would have just headed out but Chad had been good to us, so we decided to hang out until he showed up. We like to get all the daylight we can and try to be in early. Most days we will ride until mid morning then stop to eat. We then ride until we are done for the day and have supper. Today we did not end up leaving until8:30am. As we were leaving, Jim and I stressed to Matt that we needed to pick up the pace a little today. As we rode out of town, I did just that, right into a drift, which sent the sled into a nose dive with me jumping so that the sled would not land on me. It drove the ski tip into the bumper and broke the bumper but other than that, all was good. We were on our way again in a matter of minutes. I then got us mixed up trying to get thru Pinware. We ended up on a goat path in the middle of nowhere. After exploring all our options, we ended up at a pile of maker sticks (witch Matt was sure was a woodpile). We decided to go back to town. While on our way back to town we saw that the groomer had gone down a trail we had missed when crossing the road. We stopped the groomer and made sure we were going the right way. He was one of the people we had met the day before in Old Fort. He let us know that due to the storm we should not expect to make it to Cartwright today. When we reached Red Bay, we found that the road was not open, as Chad had said we would. It did not take us long to find out what be careful of the rock cuts meant. In the blinding snow I rode off the edge of one, it was a nice soft landing, but now I am in the bottom of this thing and have to ride the whole length of it to get it out. As we made our way towards Lodge Bay, the snow got deeper and deeper until we were riding in about three feet. We barely made it to fuel in Lodge Bay because Jim and I have yet to use the last of our oil and we were only carrying 3 gallons extra of fuel. Matt was only carrying 2.5gallons extra at this point. After seeing many gas stops on the map between Lodge Bay and Cartwright by trail, we decided to wait on putting gas in the 2.5 gallons blue cans. While Matt was paying, I was eyeing the road that had been plowed from this point with 6 in of snow still in it. I told Jim “we need to run the road” he replies “Why” I answered, “because the trail has three feet of snow and we need to make up time.” After a brief thought that becomes the plan at least to Charlottetown, which is the last chance to gas and get on the trail. Once we arrived at this point, we decided that the road is going well and we had enough gas so on we went. A few miles down the road, I stopped to cool the clutches and take a pic or two. We all laughed and commented on how good the going is and that we would be in Cartwright in no time. Jim takes the lead and we are off. We get down the road and all of a sudden, the plowed road ended. We then had to ride in the three feet of snow awaiting us in the road. We put the 153” in front and fell in behind him. At first, Matt was going way to fast, but We reminded him that gas was going to be an issue and that he needed to slow down. It went good with the 153” in front. He ended up buried at one point. As the fuel ran low and dusk came I, decided to break out the Satellite phone called the wife and asked her to let Dwight at the Cartwright Hotel know we were on our way and that we may be a little short on fuel. I also let him know that once we arrived we needed gas, food, and a place to dry gear. The road had been plowed again once we reached Paradise River. We went about 7 miles, met Dwight, and his brother Perry with fuel. We decided to run the sleds in to see if we would have made it. We made it, well Matt ran out in the dooryard of the hotel. We missed the gas station by an hour to be fueled up for the next morning. Remember the 2.5 hours that we left late this morning are now back to haunt us. After I insisted that Matt carry more gas, we arranged to borrow a 5-gallon gas can of Perrys and drop it with Marty in Goose Bay his hometown. We got our gear in the dryer and went to have dinner and a cocktail. Jim had no cell service. Matt and I had service. We asked for a wake up call at 5:30 am. I ask again, why we cannot get gas until 9:30am. We needed 50 gallons. Someone must be willing to open for 50 gallons and a nice tip. Dwight assures me that they will not open. We debated the sea trail or land trail to Rigolet. I reminded Matt and Jim that the groomer turned around 4 days ago and all that snow we pushed on the road today awaits us on the trail. That is why I pressed so hard for Matt to carry more fuel. Off to bed we went it had been a long hard day.
Day 7 March6th
Overcast Blowing Snow 20F 180 miles Cartwright to Rigolet
As we waited for fuel, the debate continued on which way to go to Rigolet. Hire a guide and do the sea ice which none of us are loving the sound of, or take the land trail. Dwight made a few calls and was told that it had not snowed that hard inland and the Ski-Doo support sleds for the groomer said the trail was good. There where two sleds coming from Rigolet that we would meet and the trail would be broken open half way. So after getting gas and filling all our cans ($240.00 Can, I still say we could have gotten them to open) we headed out around 10:30am. This is a very late start for a long day. We decided to run the road back to Paradise River to get the land trail and save the gas pushing snow to get to that point. That did not last long at first it was not bad except for that the groomer had run thru with the blade up and no drag so you had that big ridge in the middle of the trail. As we went out and the groomer had passed before the storm the snow changed quick and deep. If you got off where the groomer had been, which you could not see due to the new snow you where going to sink out of sight. I stopped at one point to cool the clutches and noticed the lip ring spring from the crankshaft seal was in the bottom of the belly pan. This is not good. Jim and I looked it over and decided that with a sealed bearing it would be all right for a while. I continued to lead for the first 65 miles of this when I came to a big clearing I stopped no Matt no Jim. Looking at my gauge, I dumped my 2.5 gallons can in the tank. I debated with myself to turn us back or give the 153” a run in the front. After digging Jim out the boys came along and we decided to run the 153” in the lead. I will add that the entire time I lead with the Gade I was never stuck once. Hand it to the Gade it is a good deep snow sled if you have the gas to burn. After that, we were each stuck countless times usually while trying to find the trail. Many times the snow was waist deep plus on me and I had not found bottom. At one point, I was stuck and Jim came to help but I was off the trail and he sank nipple deep. This went on for hours with slow movement. The hardest part of being stuck was getting to the sled that was stuck. By the time, you made your way to the sled you would have to stop and take a break. Jim was stuck many times just because the sled would die when he would try to give it the gas. In waist deep snow, trying to stay in Matt’s tracks Jim hit a tree right in the right ski. Bent either the cross member or lower a arm not sure which yet. Matt all of a sudden remarks, “I’m not going to make it on fuel” I replied “None of have enough gas to make it to town” You should have been there to see his face. You have to understand that this trail is in the bush there is nothing not even a power line for 140 plus miles. This is one of the two most remote trails on this trip. He tried to get me to take out the satellite phone and call for help but I refused. To dig out the satellite phone I would have had to remove all my gear on the sled. I have to do the same to remove the last three gallons of gas. This takes almost a ½ hour and I did not want to dump my last 3 gallons of fuel until I was completely out so that I could figure how many more miles I could go before I called. We were also on the losing side of daylight and I did not want to waste the extra ½ hour of sunlight. We pressed on until I heard Matt say “I can’t get thru that! Get Rob up here“. I am third in line so I look off to my right to see a trail sign 5 feet below me on a tree. We are at the end of a lake and this is one hell of a drift. This is going to be bad I thought to myself. I pulled around Jim and beside Matt to be stuck in the top of a 12-foot drift. At that point, I gave in and got out the satellite phone I opened the case to discover that I had left it on the night before and the battery light was flashing. I did not bother to let the guys know this because they where already nervous at this point, especially Matt. After attempting to call 10 times, I could not get a signal because the clouds and storm were too thick. I finally got thru to Max in Rigolet who was not very eager to help. His first comment was “what are you doing on that trail no one rides that trail; very few locals have ever run that trail.” I explained that we were not lost and that we were on the trail, and down to almost three gallons of gas each and that we were still going to be moving but would not have enough gas to get to town. I told him that I thought we would almost make it to Lake Melville (a 100 mile long tideial saltwater bay) He stressed that we not attempt to cross the lake in the dark that there was a lot of open water. He said that he would send out guys with gas that knew the trail better than he did. We started the task of getting the sleds thru the drifts by me running into the first one as fast as I could. I did not make it. The sled launched in the air and landed on it side, but on top of the drift. I will sum up by saying that it took 1.5 hours to move 150 FEET. I reminded the guys as long as were on the trail we’ll continue to move but as soon as we lost the trail we would have to turn back to the last place we were sure of being on the trail and set up camp. We also decided that when one of us is out of gas we are all stopping to set up camp and that we were prepared to stay in the woods if need be. As we all started to run out of gas, we would only dump a little in at a time so as not to have one sled with 2 gallons and the others none. I dumped the last 2 quarts in the sled and called Max again “we’re 1.2 miles from the lake” I told him “Gas is on the way and do not try to cross the lake” he responded. We went another ¾ of a mile and here come the lights of three sleds. They gave us each a five gallon can and instructed us to follow them the 30+ miles to Rigolet. We had burned 17 gallons of fuel each in 136 miles. Once in town we discovered that it was the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and two search and rescue people. He took our names and stated that the fuel was on them. We arrived at our room at 10 pm it was $100 for the room and 25 for food, which consisted of two cans of stew, hot dogs, 12 eggs and crackers. They opened the little store so we could buy a drink. Remember the 2.5 hours we left late in Lanse-au-Clair on Sunday, had that not happen we would have made Cartwright in time for fuel and left there at 6:00am instead of 11:00am. We would have had a much different view of this day if we were in by 6pm. No cell service for any of us to call home. Couple of cocktails and off to bed.
Day 8 March7th My birthday
The first day of sun 20F 130 miles Rigolet to Goose Bay
Well were up and at it early even though we could not get gas until 9:30am. As you can tell by reading this, time to these people means very little. It is a very laid-back stress free life. Jim was so dry that he drank some of the water, which was yellow in color. I wanted to but could not bring myself to do it. We are not worried about a late start today we have decided to stop at our goal for yesterday and spend some time with Marty and Tammy at Goose River Lodges. They had tracked us down because we did not arrive per plans. Marty went looking and was getting ready to start calling. We let them know that we had no real meal all day the day before and had gear that was soaked to the core we wanted to get dried out if possible. We also asked if she could get us some real milk or cream for a coffee (sounds petty but at this point its huge). Next a call from Labrador Winter Trails. Lori has heard of or previous day and wanted to be sure everyone was all right. I told her that we are all fine but the information we were getting in all the community’s was poor at best and signage was a major problem. She let me know that it just so happened that they were headed to Lake Melville to mark the crossing on Wednesday. Bruce, one of the search and rescue guys showed up around 8am. What an intelligent man. He has degrees in a few areas. He is in charge of the trails around Rigolet and wanted to know why we were ever told to take that trail. Well that was easy Dwight at the Cartwright Hotel. He let us know that no one uses that trail not even the locals and that as far as he knew, himself and the crew that marked the trail are the only ones to ride it from end to end. From talking with others including presidents of the clubs it seems that we are the first traveler’s to ever cross the trail. The Sea Ice is much shorter and a lot less challenging he explained. The trail is only there because Labrador Winter Trails controls the money and there needed to be a land trail for Cartwright to get their money. He offered to load the track for the Sea Ice trail as well as the trail to Goose Bay into my GPS. He stated that we would not need it if we were good enough to find our way from Cartwright by the land trail, but it would not hurt to have it. He told Jim and I where the good store was and went to load my GPS. Jim and I took a ride around the village, taking pictures of trucks and cars buried to the roofs with snow. As we spent a little time in the village and the store, we begin to realize these people were unfriendly, nothing like Bruce who went out of his way to help us. Jim was standing on the porch waving at people passing by and no one would acknowledge him. Bruce returned and we asked him about it, he simply replied, “that he was not from Rigolet, and that he spent most of his days in Northern Labrador” “North of here?” I asked he laughed. Rigolet is an Inuit Village (native Eskimos). According to him many of the villages do not get along and do not work together well adding to the trail problem, we noticed the animosity between villages ourselves. After finally getting fueled up we headed off to Goose Bay (no coffee again). Short day but again we were due for a day of rest. He offered to ride out with us and show us more of the village. As we ride out the views are unbelievable the sun makes all the difference. This is the first time we have seen the sun in a week. About 10 miles out he pulled off and wished us well on our travels. We snapped a picture of him and were off. I picked up the pace a little now that it just us, and within 2 miles Jim and I here the familiar call from Matt over the radio “Guy’s I’m stuck again come help” Jim and I turned around and go back to pull him out. It seemed that now there were more trees, and running off the trail when you miss a corner is not an option. Matt was having a hard time to get the 153 around corners falling off several times. Good running for most of the way, until we reached a 20 miles section that they had only run the groomer and no drag thru. What a slow going pain in the butt that was. We traveled a long section of the lake, on the lake I hit a major slob hole, before I could yell in the radio Jim hit it, how he pulled it off with out going over the bars is beyond me. We reached North West River toped off with fuel and headed for Goose Bay from there in was awesome. Finally a trail like we are used to riding I couldn’t help it I took a little jab at Jim “Jimmy” I called over the radio “I’m here” he replies “Look it’s the groomed trail you been promising we were going to ride for the last five days” as I laughed to myself he quickly responds “shshshsh you’ll jinx us”. Sure enough, Jim blew his first belt. We got to Goose River Lodges at 2:45pm and fueled up the sleds. Matt returned Perry’s gas can to Marty and borrowed a 6-gallon can from Marty. He could now carrying 8.5 extra gallons of gas. We got our laundry together and Tammy dried our gear. We had a couple of cocktails and then went to dinner. We had an excellent beef stew. Matt turned in early (as usual). Jim and I called home on my phone, he still has no cell service. We ask Marty for a 5:30am wake up. We wanted to get back on track with our departure times. He offered to ride part of the way out with us, but it would not be far because he was flying to Newfoundland later in the day. We agreed. He told us where we would meet a friend of his with gas so we could make a hard run to Churchill Falls and not worry about fuel in hopes to take the 1pm tour of the plant. Off to bed
Day 9 March 8th
Sunny again two days in a row. -20f to start Goose Bay to Churchill Falls 190 miles
We were finally back on track. We got up early and had breakfast at 6:00am, with real cream for the coffee. Jim could not be happier. Marty showed us all the short cuts out of town. It was good because we needed to be in Churchill Falls by 1pm if possible. We never really saw much of Goose Bay because their place was out of town. We rode out to Upper Brook where the trail crosses the road and there was a young man there waiting for us with fuel. We toped off the sleds, Jim gave him a $20 tip and we were off. We could now hammer down because fuel would not be an issue. We did not make it very far before the trail went back to being just packed by the groomer after the Goose Bay turn around. It was actually harder to ride the packed groomer path than breaking a foot of snow. We went about 30 + miles when I was just about to ask Jim “Where the heck did this guy leave his drag?” We found the drag and the Piston Bully 200 groomer that was out of Labrador City. Marty had told us that it would be out there because Churchill Falls was not doing there part to maintain the trail. Marty told us that we might see some Caribou in this area, so we were doing a little rubber necking (never did see a live Caribou). We had great trails all the way to Churchill Falls. We stopped at the gas station. We were about 10 minutes late for the 1pm tour so we figured we had some time to kill. Wouldn’t you know they had our rum and we were out, perfect. We went to the Hotel in the City Center Building to get a room. We checked in and called home (no cell service for Jim). We checked out the building it houses the school, post office, gym, grocery store, bank, hotel, swimming pool, library, restaurant, and a hand full of other things. This is a company owned town. If you do not work at the Hydro Plant, you cannot live there. When you retire, you have to leave. We met some young guys that were on sleds at the gas station. They had never ridden to Goose Bay or Lab City; they stick to their own community. We went to the bank to exchange more money. Jim was out of luck, his new bankcard would not work. I loaned him some cash. He is not impressed to say the least. We went back to the room for a few cocktails and cards before dinner. We had a 7pm tour of the Hydro Plant (IT IS NOT A DAM) which after a couple of cocktails we seemed to keep saying. Jim tried to place a collect call home only to find that his phone has a block keep saying. Jim tried to place a collect call home only to find that his phone has a block on collect calls. This will stay on his mind for days. After a drink or two coupled with his phone and bankcard troubles, Matt and I cannot help ourselves this is just way too funny. Julie the tour guide picked us up at the hotel and took us to an information center where we watched a film on the plant. What these people did in this remote area in the 60’s is unbelievable. After watching the video we head thru security and into the plant. We get on an elevator that drops 990 feet in 1min45secs. You end up in an under ground solid granite power plant. I would go into detail but it would take 10 pages alone. I will say that it is necessary do if ever in Churchill Falls. After the tour, we went back to our room and Matt went straight to bed. Jim and I talked about the trail to Port Cartier and the boat schedule to cross back over. We need to be in Godbout by 10 am on Saturday to get the boat. We called for a 5:30 wake up call and went to bed.
Day 10 March9th
Sunny but cold -15F Churchill Falls to Lab City 235 miles
We got up to a biting cold morning. We get geared up and head out. In staying with the rest of the communities, the signage is nonexistent. I cannot understand why there are no signs in the middle of a community. People in this area could care less if travelers come or not. The worst part is the guys at the gas station were bragging about all their time off. You would think that as a snowmobiler they would lend a hand and help the trail system. We found our way out of town after about 20 minutes. Matt struggled with the M-7 in the one lane hard packed trail. I gave him the Gade to try and we were off again. We went along until the trail met a plowed road. We knew this was coming and that it was the trail for about the next 40+ miles. While trying to find a spot to get over the plowed bank Jim sinks the 1000 Gade. We have all decided by this point that this it is hard work. Matt decided that he would stick to the M-7 and did not care for the Rev. The feeling is mutual. I would not have a 153” if they gave it to me. Down the trail we go to Gabbro and The Northen Light Lodge. We went to the one on the main trail. The other one is out in the bush. Bernard the owner’s brother is running the show. His brother is in Florida on vacation. We had coffee and breakfast. It was the best cup of coffee we had in many days. We talked to the groomer operator Jerry that had pulled in right behind us. He told us that they had just left camp and were headed back to Lab City. He let us know that we should have good trails all the way in from there. They had just groomed it coming out the day before. We quizzed him on the signage and trail conditions that we had been having. He explained that things are just getting going and that they really struggle with some of the community’s for support. He told us that Todd Kent president of the snowmobile club was working hard to get things changed. If these communities do not start running their machines and signing, that they were going to lose their funds. I offered to fly back and run one of the groomers for a week. He said no problem. They have been having a hard time to find drivers that was why one of the Lab City groomers was on the other side of Churchill Falls. Todd Kent has been running that groomer and has been out for three weeks. Bernard told us that it has been a very bad year for the Caribou and that he is not surprised that we had not seen any. Full of fuel and food we were off again. This trail was the best we had ridden since we left Port Cartier. Jerry the groomer driver asked us to swing up to the groomer shed in Esker Siding and make sure he shut the fuel to the heater off. We did. It was only12 miles out of the way. From there we run into town. The trails were great. As we got close to town a sled, coming the other way on the trail startled me to the point I almost ran off the trail. Wow, that was the first sled that we had met on the trail since we left L’anse-au-Clair 4 and half days ago. We have seen many sleds in and around these towns and villages but not on the trails. I dwelled on this thought, the rest of the way to Lab City. The reality of what we were doing was finally sinking in. We arrived in Lab City at 2:45pm. Once in town we got fueled up and headed to the ski-doo dealer. I had them check the code on my 800. I explained the seal to them and they got right on it. We were only there for about an hour. They did get me good for a belt however $190 Canadian. I wanted to have two spares before heading into the bush tomorrow. We got checked into our room. Matt fall’s back on to the dresser and states, “I’m not that tough after all.” Long before we ever left Jim tried and tried to get Matt to go ride with us for a couple days to sort of feel him out a little, and all Matt would say to him is “I’m tough don’t worry about it, I’m I great shape” That is where his comment came from. We settled in for a cocktail and I let him know that it was not over yet. Tomorrow was going to be a tough day. The Fermont to Port-Cartier trail was thought to be the toughest of the trip when we started. We went to the bar for a cocktail and then dinner. We went back to the room and Matt was out by 8:30pm. Jim and I reviewed our notes on the trail. We called the log yard to tell them we were coming and that we would need fuel. I called my wife with the number in case she did not hear from us. I then called gramps with the number because we would be back in Quebec and needed someone that could speak fluent French. It is hard to find someone that speaks English. Jim expressed his concern with this trail. I reviewed the facts that there was a bail out at Fire Lake. It is the only place the trail nears the road. We will be following along the R&R tracks south of Fire Lake. The log yard is in only 150 miles or so in, and the first 30 miles is groomed. From the log yard down to Port-Cartier is only 110 miles on a seasonal road that is easy to follow and near the tracks. The bad points are the lake we have to ride for many miles. The slob on the lake will be bad as it has been the whole trip. There is also a five-mile section that is all side hilling and you have to stand on the uphill running board to get thru. We have waypoints but no track. We are going to try it. We call for a 5:30am wake up. Off to bed.
Day11 March 10th
Overcast snowing 20F Lab City to Baie-Comeau 430 miles
We are up to early as I think that gas in Fermont is going to be a problem due to going back into Quebec and the 1-hour time change. We get and coffee and leave. We arrived in Fermont 45 mins before the gas station opened. While we waited for the gas station to open, Matt suggests that we have enough fuel to go to the log yard and do not need to top off with only 36 miles on. Jim and I are together on this one. We are not headed into the bush until we are full. The first 30 miles after gas were groomed to Relais Mazarin. Once we reached Relais Mazarin the find the trail game started again. It was not too bad as it was marked fairly well. Snowing a little harder now, we made our way to Fire Lake and crossed the tracks. This is where we made our first mistake. We spent to long looking for signs, not remembering that the signage ends at the tracks and we needed to continue by GPS. After 30 mins we did. Sure enough right on the waypoints down the power line we went. Snowing harder now and the gps is working slowly due to the snow. We continued. There had been so much snow since the last time any sled had been thru that you could not see any trail. When you are on it, you only sink 16” and when you are off its 4-5 feet deep. As we passed by the tracks it looked like sleds had crossed the bank. I knew we had to cross again before the lake so it seemed to make sense. So over we go after a few miles we had turned away from the next waypoint. I broke out the map and it showed that we should not have crossed the tracks so soon. We decided to turn around. All of us got stuck. In the process of getting, Matt’s sled out he finds a skid bolt half way out. The nut is missing but we can put it back in and keep an eye on it. Matt removed the tool kit and I notice that the bolt that goes threw the rotor to the diamond drive is broken and has been chewing a hole in the side cover. We looked over the sled, he was also missing a bolt from his rack on the tunnel. We get turned and go back to where we made the wrong turn and the debate starts. We were 50 miles from the log yard by trail, 25 miles back to Fire Lake and the road, and 90 miles back to Fermont. Matt and Jim wanted to go back to Fermont and call for the snow bus. I pointed out that if we did that we would sit there the rest of the day. If we could get a ride on Saturday, we would have to sit in Baie-Comeau until Sunday at 6pm for the boat. We would then have to get a room in Matane Sunday night, go to the truck on Monday and drive home late Monday night. There was no way I was doing that. I wanted to go south, so we compromised and backtracked to Fire Lake with the intent of running the road. It was snowing 1” every 45minutes at this point. We had jumped down a huge drift to get to where we were and we knew that it was going to be hard to get back up. Matt assured me I could not make it. We got there and Jim was in front of me. He decided that he would go first, and he would have made it if his sled had not died on him. While Jim was digging his sled out Matt found an easy way around. I did not try after the hole Jim made. It would have been tough. We reached the road and Matt was questioning my judgment. I was going to run the road south, so I suggested that if they wanted to it was 60 miles back to Fermont by road they could go. Jim and I ride many miles together and over the years he has learned to trust me if its seems reasonable. So south we go, down Route 389 at marker 480KM down to Gabriel at marker 317. We pull in and fuel up and everyone was looking at us. Just before we got there, a pickup truck went by us on the road. He was in the yard I told Matt to hit him up for a ride. He wanted all of us to get a ride together. So while they were out knocking on truck windows looking for a ride in a blizzard, I called the wife and told her our plans had changed. I ordered a coffee. The guys came in debating what to do next. I plainly and firmly let them know that I was not wasting time waiting for a ride and that when I was done eating I was riding my Ski Doo to Baie-Comeau and I would see them at the hotel. Matt who was nervous about his sled asked, “What if I break down?” If you break down, we will tow you or get you a ride, which he could have already done. We went down to Manic Five and the dam. It was an amazing sight. We fueled again and headed down the road to town. Another 294 miles on the road. We got to the hotel at 10pm. Matt went on the hunt for a skid bolt, which I am amazed he found. We called a cab to take us to our favorite restaurant in town only to find that they where closed. We decided to go to the Laundromat to dry gear, it was also closed. We opted to go to the pub down town for nachos and a cocktail or two. We went back to the room, hung gear to dry and went off to bed. We had a 5:30am wake up call. Day12 March 11th
Sunny 30F beautiful day 230 miles Baie-Comeau to Riviere-du-Loup
We went to Tim Hortons for a coffee, fill up on gas and headed off to Godbout. The trail was in great shape even after the rain that they had. This trail if you have never ridden it is very scenic on a clear day. We took our time and enjoyed the ride. We arrived in Godbout at 8:15 fueled up and had breakfast. We went over to catch the boat where we met two guys from Maine. They were on there way home from a 9-day 2600-mile ride to Ontario and back. They rode until 2am one day. Now that is hardcore. We were loaded on the boat on time and crossed over on time. We were looking at getting back to the truck by early evening. We got off the boat and headed down the trail. It is very warm. I stopped to take off my bibs. It was really warm. As we reached, Rimouski Jim decided to have a little fun and step up the pace for the first time this trip, so we did. Well it did not last for long before the 800 blew up 100 miles from completing the trip. Matt towed me to town while Jim went to get the truck. Matt and I hit the bar and had a couple of cocktails. Once Jim arrived, we called a cab and headed for dinner. Made it back to the room and called for a 5:30am wake up call.
Day13 March 12th
Sunny 35F
For the first time on the trip Matt was the first one up and ready to go. Over to Tim’s for coffee and down the road we go. Stopped in Jackman to drop off all the junk sleds and have lunch. Pulled in the door yard at 1:30pm
This was to be and was the trip of a lifetime. I wish our dear friend Dave could have made the trip after all the planning and miles that we have run as a group he was dearly missed. Congrats, on the birth of there first child the day we left her name is Emily.
At the on set of this trip I said that in ten years it would be the next Gaspesie if you will, I since have wavered back and fourth on that thought. Even with the best plans all, the groomers more signs, more food, and more services this will still be Labrador and the terrain and the weather patterns will always be tough. The conditions change very fast, faster than most people have ever seen. With all that said if some one hit it just right the whole way, they did not get a lot of snow between grooming, and then they would say that it is not that bad. I just do not think that it is possible in a span of travel that big. There is an older gentleman that makes this trip (Ice Route out of Cartwright and the snow bus out of Lab) ever year now for 4 o r5 years and I think that he now brings his wife. He travels in a large group of ten or more they take there time and hold up when the conditions COULD get bad. It takes them several weeks but they do it, in late March. Again, this is what I was told on the trip I have not spoken to this person, he is from Penn. I guess the point of all this is to show the contrast in this trip.
The highlights of the trip where the people and places that we traveled thru. Not the snowmobile that we would use to typical rate a trip. After spending a little time in the region, you have to stop and wonder are they really that far out of pace with the rest of the world or do they choose to live a life style that supports family and community.
I would highly recommend this trip to a well-prepared advanced snowmobiler that can keep there cool in a jam. Be very careful whom you choose to go with you, it is easy to be a little rattled when the weather pins you. Take your time around the communities the signage is very poor. A GPS track is the only way to fly, I lost everything before Cartwright when Bruce loaded his tracks in so I am of no help there but the rest of the trip I have. Your mileage will depend on how much searching you have to do. With each year that passes this trip will get easier as they are working hard to promote the area.
I will close by saying that I do a lot of Ski-Dooin every year, as most of you know, by far this trip was the most physically draining, mentally draining, and emotional draining I have ever done. I will do it again maybe as soon as next year, but I will know what to expect now.
I would like to thank my wife and without her support, this trip would have never been possible.
After the rescue and lunch, we ran back up 85 to 35 west. 35 is fine and goes around the top of Lac Pohenegamook. I didn't see any stakes or tracks on the lake. There was a red banner across the trail opening on the east side of the lake. 35 to 526 to 5 and back to Universal.
The best news is Relais Pohenegamook (two arches), Relais Explorateurs and even the little relais on trial 5 in St Antonin was open. The season is upon us.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
Our final day was yesterday, so awesome to ride with Markus and Dooright for those days they were up. Another great season opener, conditions improved steadily day by . Hopefully more snow will be on the way soon🤞.
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