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She's out


snowmaster2112
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pulled the old gal out this weekend. Christ almighty is there a TON of shit to remove to pull a 1200 

Hope to get her all back in by end of thanksgiving weekend.

Here a pic of her on the side getting the "water method" for the primary clutch 

and both motors side x side

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got her all put back together. Again...Christ almighty....LOL

all I have to do is fill with oil and coolant (going to use the vaccum method)and hit the start button. 

As much as the job was a PITA it was a damn good lesson in familiarization with "everything 1200". I know a ton more about my sled for sure. 

Hopefully Tug Hill will get some snow in the next couple weeks and I can take her on a "shake down" run. Absolutely mandatory before hauling her to QC

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well...tonight was the big test. Filled her with oil ( I drained last week before putting motor back in sled) and a buddy came over and brought his vaccum tool that you hook to an air compressor to inject your coolant.  Gauge was dropping very slowly off 27 under negative vaccum which indicated a leak. I was pretty damn methodical when tightening the hose clamps (expecially by the thermostat in back of motor area) but one front rad hose needed another turn and it solved that problem and now held vaccum. Injected 1.6 gallons of BRP 5 yr pink coolant in from a 2 gallon bucket so easy it would make your head spin. 

Now we hit the start button. Took about three or four 5 second attempts to get the fuel up from the tank and thru the rail and injectors and she started right up. Not long after a bunch of smoke started coming off the header (contanaments of oil residue I suppose) and some from the exhaust pipe/can donut area. Then the check engine light came on and motor sounded different. At this point I'm like WTF....and shut her down. 

Then I remember you can look up codes if you have the premium gauge package. A quick YouTube search shows this easy process. With engine running toggle high beams while holding down the M button on cluster. Sure enough..... 3 codes P2621, P2620 & P212C

All three indicate an open circuit or failure in the TPS sensor. Mother huck if I didn't plug the connector back in while I was putting the rubber boot on with hose clamp on the throttle body. Solved that issue and after a couple minutes of letting it run (took a couple times actually) the light went off and engine was CLEARLY running smooth as butter. I just completed 3 or 4 engine running cycles and all appears SUPER WELL. Coolant is circulating with warm heat exchangers and I can actually watch the temp go down a degree or two when slightly revving higher indicating the water pump is pushing the coolant through. 

My good buddy from Vermont (thanks for all your input on this project) said if you do 99.8% of things right on a project like this that still leaves a couple fuck up's. Hopefully I do not have another....LOL

All I got do now is throw the outside plastic back on the old gal and wait for some snow on Tug Hill to give her a shakedown. The "Hill" will come through...without a doubt and most likely in the next 10-15 days. I have to drive 2 hr 45 min. but it will be worth it. 

Then.......hope to see some fellow QR's this season in the mother land. Looking forward to it as much as I ever have !!!!

 

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