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Cote Nord and Lab loop


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RR  

    Thanks again for taking the time to share this trip with all of your pics with us. I will be the first to admit that I would never have anything close to the skill for a trip like yours, but like many it has been an adventure to follow along. 

Jeff and Sandy

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9 hours ago, BOBLER said:

Labcity to chibougamau to northbay to labcity next?

Early rider has a little bigger run in mind,lol,  Lab city to Radisson, down James Bay to Moosonee and than south. 

Next year we have Finland on the radar though. That will be our next big one!

😉

RR

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17 hours ago, dmccrea@twcny.rr.com said:

We have talked about James Bay for years now as far as we can tell that one would consist of several nights in the bush.  Road support for fuel vast expanses there also.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DM, from Radisson down would probably be doable with lighter support, we did the Moosonee run to lower James Bay in 2015 from Cochran, so we have that section locked in. Certainly the challenge would be the 500 plus mile run from Lab to Radisson. That is the section Rob has been studying and planning for awhile. I suspect he will have to place fuel, and have an arrangement of cabins ect for a few nights of lodging. He is the "Master" and suspect he will figure that out lol!

 

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1 hour ago, RoadRunner said:

Yes Revct, Tons of planning and than things still go astray sometimes! 😉

pretty sure i ran into your group in moonbeam ont, on your return from moosenee on march break of 2015.there were 8 of you on a bucket list mission.

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On 3/8/2017 at 0:09 PM, RoadRunner said:

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The Red was the less challenging parts of the ride, the yellow would be more challenging.

Trip Summary

(Here is a summary, by day of the correspondence we posted over the past 2 weeks)

Our Cote Nord/ Lab loop trip starts this coming Wednesday. I plan to get a few picks and adventure reports on when we can. 

The itinerary looks like this, but certainly subject to change based on weather, mechanical and snow and ice conditions.

We have 8 guys going on this trip, 3 from Maine, 2 New Hampshire (603 backcountry),  1 from Mass, 1 Nova Scotia, 1 from Lab.

Feb 22 Wed  Depart Forestville for Sept Isle

 

Revct, we had a great day,  as many of you guys know,  that run from Forestville to Sept Isle is a mix of everything,  from the old burn in Baie Comeau, to the roller coasters between Comeau and Godbout, then piston alley into Sept Isle. Just a little of everything!  We had a good 295 mile run,  a minor,  but could have been major breakdown. Fixed and into Baie Comeau by 5pm, we were into Port Carter at 2:30, but needed repairs. Funny, pulled into the repair shop, and who is there, but the remaining part of , our crew also in the shop for repairs. Each of us with rear axle bolts broken.

Nice scenery today, a couple of the guys had never been over the big bridge,  they loved that. 

The rear axle bolt on one of the 154 free rides broke and disappeared, just north of Godbout. If the rear axle had come out, it wood have been a yard sale of parts flying and possibly a spoiled track.  We noticed it, McIvered a hd wire tie wrap thru the rear axle and  tied it off to both rails to keep the axle in. It worked for 50 miles!  We lucked out for sure!

  On 2/22/2017 at 9:03 PM, Northbound said:

 

Roadrunner,  I am anxiously following your trip. We've been only as far as Sept illes several times which is far enough for us. Today we were traveling towards baie comeau from godbout and we think we saw two in your group heading east. One of the sleds looked like the lime and blue colored sled in today's pic. Stay safe and have a great trip

       Jeff and Sandy

Northbound, we fueled and left Baie Comeau about 10:30 and were near Godbout around 12 :15. You should have met 5 of us, but we may have been spread out a bit? This is what some of the sleds looked like.

 

TB, we are hoping for decent wifi along the way, met some guts tonight who got hauled out of the Cote Nord on a car carrier today, said the trail was very rough. We are hoping that their rough and our rough are two different things!!

Hope to  have wifi to report more tomorrow

 

 

Headed for havre tomorrow, we suspect ..bye bye to those great groomed trails

 

 

Thurs Feb 23  Sept Isle for Havre St Pierre

 

182 Ray, At dinner last night,  I asked the group of 8 , how many have done this run to Blanc Sablon, we all chuckled when we discovered, none of us had,  and it was Robs only time on that trip in 2006ish, and that was his only time out thru. It's not very often we put a trip together that most of us have not find lol. Rob lead the group today

We got an early start,  on the sleds around 7, we were off on our journey!

We wanted to get ahead start on the weather system coming in, You hit the report perfectly,  the first 25 miles were great to the Mosey River, then the next 45 miles,  would make you ask your self  I am doing this because I want to right? This section had the machine thru without a drag,  a long time ago. But not marked particularly well,  rough,  but rideable,  helps greatly to have a gps.

This section,  would be ugly, after or during a snow storm, we lucked out today with decent visibility and some sleds have been thru. Than after 45 miles, and crossing river Tortue, bang, there was a fairly fresh groomed trail!  Wow, should have checked fcmq and the groomer surfacing report, we would not have been so shocked,  from there on in we rolled it out fast, checking into to Hotel du Havre around 2 PM and 170 miles on.  A great first day on out journey,  prepared to rough ride it in, but very happy, the last 100 miles were great! 

On to Chevery tomorrow! 

We had a small delay today with the sleigh, the Sleigh manufactured by Jean guy... Sleigh Masters Inc.. had a tie down bracket failure. The sleigh is owned by Robs, Team Maine. Fortunately,  we had the warranty,  service rep with us from Jean Guy Sleigh Masters for the repair. The ultimate issue is who pays.  Team Maine claims defective material!, Jean guy Sleigh Masters claims product abuse!  We see a warranty claim dispute on the horizon!! 

Having a great time with a great bunch of guys! 

DM, great to hear from you,  yes, those areas that look like low snow coverage , are actually in a burn area, they are wind blown and boney, once you get down out of them,  there is plenty of snow. I figured you were following along, Will keep posted as we can. 

From what it sounds like, if you want to experience the Cote Nord East and don't want to wrestle with the 45 miles of marginal trail, east of the Mosie, some people trailer to Havre, and head east from here.  An option, unless your a die hard rider, like many on this site, than you pound out the 45 miles of rough stuff to get to the good stuff lol

it sounds like the further east we go, the more the trail gets used by some visitors and lots of  locals, we will find that out and report in

 

 

Friday Feb 24 Havre to Chevery

 

Yes Jack, we broke down a list of things we wanted, and rather than have 4 of everything and the accompanying weight we broke that list out among us. We took pics of what we were carrying and started the packing process. Here is a sample pick of some assorted small hardware that is in a small pouch on my sled.

The planning process is part of the fun. Couple that with an extensive back up of parts or the ability to locate parts in Lab city that Rob has with his Team Maine connections there, Robs wife, Tina is usually near her phone and has all our Spot/inreach devices addresses,  so she can relay messages and report locations back to us if we get separated, or find the parts and arrange transport if needed. Rob and Tina from Team Maine are big assets for a trip like this!

Currently , we have the 1200 expedition with some sort of a fuel system issues, it is running, but very iradic at low and mid range. No engine alerts so not an apparent problem that we could find on the buds system. We hope this will work its way out this am and not become an issue. We will see!

SM, we all got a chuckle out of that one. We made it to Chevery, 247 miles.  Pics are limited due to wifi restrictions. Will get a trail report up later. Great blue sky day today,  a lingering problem with the 1200. More reports later. A great ride,  all in all!  RR

Well, we started the day, where we ended it yesterday, with issues with the 1200 expedition and the fuel system. So what do we do, we are  10 miles out of Havre on a beautiful blue sky day. So we use our "one" lol phone call to dial up our 1200 expert. QR's one and only 1500 HD,  we call him tell him what is going on and he says, pull the top off and check the coil wires, than possible the electric throttle, or the rear draw tank has an issue. So trail side you tear it apart. We jus happen to have "5" top mechanics Trailside and off they go. Pulling this thing apart like we are in an Indy race. Coil wires are all connecting well, but one of our crew notices a kink in the draw tank feed line. We think that as this line gets warm, it collapses and plugs of the fuel venting. So we by pass the draw tank and set it back up like stock. Sled goes back together and runs great. Off we go in search of the "white road"

to be continued...

it should be noted, that Dixon, our Artic cat guy, who had problems yesterday, was somewhat celebratory that one of the skidoo had issues today! It's a tough crowd!

 Once we get rolling, it is a quick 50 or so to johan beetz, groomed with 4 to 5" of fresh snow. You can't beat that. Than from johan to Aguanish, well... go back and read the description yesterday of the trail after the Mosie river. Yup, 50 miles of......enough said! You probably don't want to do this section unless completely,

 prepared.. we bang thru this and once we fueled up and had a sealed packaged egg salad sandwich for lunch, we were off for the white road. Groomed trail, here and over to Natashuan, where the original white road used to leave from. We pick up the old white road here, but it is not maintained by the ministry so it leaves a bit to be desired if groomed trails are what you  like. Now the 138 goes all the way to Kegaska, so the official ministry maintained white road starts here now.

once you hit the white road in Kegaska, it is like grand central, we met 50 plus sleds on this super highway this afternoon, all the locals were heading somewhere and also a few touring trail sleds. This trail  is marked with a stake every 50 feet, seriously! A blind squirrel could find his way down this. So into Chevery we go. Only to have the 1200 start acting up again 30 miles out of Chevery, very confusing. Tonight our best  mechanics in our group are changing fuel filters that Misty River lodge rounded up for us locally and a heated garage to do the repair!  Great hospitality. Tomorrow, Lance au Clair....with the 1200 We Hope!

 

 

Jack and Sandi, today we were riding off road on the white road, no road base exists here. The snow trial is what the locals use to get around in the winter as they are land and water bound during the rest of the season. Talking with locals, they really lie winter because they can leave their communities by snowmobile instead of boat or plane. Tomorrow from vieux fort to Blanc sablon is where we will find the road system that is or used to be converted to a trail in the winter.  We will verify that tomorrow as some think the road is plowed now with a trail beside it?  

It also appears that if someone wants to ride the white road,and not put up with the intermediary trail to get to it. You would trailer to Kegaska and leave from there. If so this would be a very easy, safe, ride east from that point in Kegaska To Blanc Sablon, and the communites are awesome! Happy trails RR

 

 

 

 

Sat Feb 25 Chevery to Lance au loop Lab

 

Some of the trail and views from Johan beetz over to aguanish and onto Chevery yesterday afternoon. Note the stakes or tripods every 50 feet👍 The single track sections are between johan and aguanish. The staked trail and very new warming huts are on the ministry maintained trail between Kegaska and Chevery

To add to RR's post the scenery has been fantastic and the people warm and welcoming  Wifi is slow some pics wil not upload will try later

Spectacular scenery from Chevery Quebec to L Anse au Clair Labrador

Harrington Harbor Quebec this morning, it is actually an island we had to ride across the sea ice from the mainland to and from.

All of the communities between Kegaska and Vieux fort have no road access from outside, they are isolated and have only local roads in their communities. In the winter, the roads are not plowed and the snowmobile becomes the normal mode of transportation, These people are very accomadating, friendly and glad to see you. Winter is their time to be able to move around and socialize. The Quebec transport ministries contracts for the white road to be groomed by large snowmobiles and rear drags, also the stakes and signage is done under this contract. An amazing process to experience and see in operation

Markus, loosely marked would not do justice to the piece between Kegaska and Vieux fort, as I mentioned earlier, that is marked every 50 feet, great signage, and maintenance. A very enjoyable ride on a clear day. You understand why they need markers however,as this is a major transportation corridor in the winter for locals and in a snowstorm, you would want every marker to get you to the next survival shelter! 

Revct, you are right in that interpretation, the best way to experience the white road without running into loosely marked trails and unbroken conditions. Would be to go to Kegaska or Blanc Sablon to start. This section rivals the Gaspe in experience. The views are as amazing as the Gaspe and the white road trail is a very special experience not comparable with the fcmq system,

At the Quebec/ Labrador border this afternoon, just east of Blanc Sablon, Team Maine's Early rider has organized and lead this trip. He and his wife Tina have been awesome in the planning of this trip, we are very appreciative of his efforts and knowledge

DM, we got the 1200 as far as Vieux fort, a generous local man hauled it to Lance to brp for repairs. It never came out of it, very strange, backfiring, hitching, but Early rider was able to drive it to Vieux fort for his owner and repairs. The changed the core fuel filter screen and changed battery terminals. A weird issue for sure. Tomorrow its gets tested again!

6 to 8 gallons of Extra gas is good, or you gas up at every opportunity and you will be fine with a safety 3 or 4 gallon brp tank.

a great trip to put on your radar!

 

 

Sun Feb 26  Lance to Mary's Harbor

 

TB, today's ride was not the blue sky days we had been blessed with. But that's what makes an adventure right? Today we had fog, rain and the 1200 sled gremlins are still with us. We rode like all the sleds were connected to each other and a cable hooked to Rob's expedition extreme. Low visibility made you realize how good Rob is. Running by gps alone near zero visibility at times and not marked like the white road! 

When the 1200 gremlins kicked in with zero visibility, Rob took a vote on how to get to mary's with a bad sled. Along came TLH.

TLH is great snowmobile  club, but they sand the the middle of the trail?? What's up with that.  Anyway, we made the last 40 miles on the TLH in the fog and rain to Mary's harbor for the night. All done by noon!  100 miles for the day.

Cooling temps tonight and off to Cartwright tomorrow

DM, So far we are on plan, we had reservations here at Mary's Harbor. We are looking for someone who can take the 1200 to Goose bay , 275 miles for what we think may be a tps sensor or electric throttle. BRP buds is not helping us diagnose this. One of the harder issues to find is an electrical gremlin. Certainly very frustrating for the owner!

Markus, today's ride ,was more like you described, loosely marked and a very occasional emergency shelter. Lab is rightly named "The Big  Land" 

Rob and Dixon  from  Lab  city are planning tomorrow and tuesdays ride now. Looking at tracks and planning the route. Lots of stuff. Sea ice, trap lines and lake Melville are all in the mix. 

Should be a good run either way!

Thank you Markus, there are some things you mention that we have not addressed. We are scratching our heads at this point, the brp tech thought he had it last night.  We will look into these suggestions and keep you posted.  RR

We really appreciate all the input the you guys are sending back. Every time something new is mentioned we are out on the sled checking it out. Currently it gets trucked to goose for the Brp dealer to look at. We checked coil connections markus had mentioned and pins to make sure all pins were connecting, but it could be still in this area. The run relay keeps coming up too so that gets tested and changed this time too. We will no know more by Tuesday. Ugh!  It's tough in the big land, everyone is very helpful but distances to dealers are huge. A long ride and couple of days for the owner again.

 

 

Monday Feb 27 Mary's to Cartwright

 

We had a spectacular blue sky day today,  ran the ice and portages to the remote village of  Black  Tickle, definitely a Team Maine Custom tour today!. Gorgeous ride!  More details to follow RR

More pics of the ride from Marys Harbor to Black Tickle and onto Cartwright today. Lots of Sea Ice, Gorgeous scenery and Black Tickle is very special!

Florida snowman and Mike R, that would be one heck of a trip, we may need to start working on accomadations for 200!

Iceman, the Blanche road is a must for you that's for sure!

Skeld. We were able to run the ditches probably 30% of the time.

Todays ride left Mary's Harbor and we took a combination of the old tlt trail and bays to get to Port hope Simpson.

Gassed up there and rode Robs gps tracks along the coast  and inner bays over to the the trail that is maintained from Cartwright to Black Tickle by the government for that remote eastern community. 120 people live in Black Tickle. A polar bear sighting here recently as well as a herd of 20 Caribou last weekend

The conditions this morning were very hard after the rain yesterday, but a blue sky day for sure. Running the coastal route today taught many of us the joys and awareness that is needed to do this. Sea ice, like any ice is good in some places but needs respect in others. We saw plenty of areas that you would not want to wander into during a snow storm or at night unless you had great knowledge of the area.

The scenery here on the south coast of Lab rivals what we saw on the white road and in the Gaspe!

Black Tickle was a first visit for everyone in our group today! That is amazing in it's self!

Two Quebec gentlemen pulled in tonight heading in our same direction. They will join us tomorrow on our way to Goose Bay!

182, I can understand the under whelming experience you might get from the Trans lab Hiway, from the bits we have seen, Somehow on a snowmobile, following the coastal shore it seems to change that experience.

The boys from Montreal Quebec that were running a day ahead of us apparently. Said they had done fine until the grooming stopped at Red Bay lab. No problems on their ride along Cote Nord.

From there,  they have had a bit of trouble finding their way along the relatively unmarked and unmaintained trails. We got ahead of them yesterday somewhere , probably while we were on our "Team Maine custom coastal route" as they stayed in port Hope Simpson the night before, just north of Mary's Harbor, but tried to come by trail. The gps trail map they had purchased was inaccurate up here. They had done this loop 10 years or so ago, so not a first time. They seemed pretty happy when Rob asked them to join in with us. Great guys, we will have a good time with them joining in.

The boys have ski doo 1200s and were strapping on spare windshield washer gas jugs last night for the run tomorrow. Approx a 180 to 200 mile run without a  fuel stop.

A great barbeque at Dwight Lethbridges in Cartwright tonight,  awesome hospitality! !

The motel here does not serve breakfast, but has a kitchen fully stocked. They told us we can use the kitchen and make our own. We have two "master chefs" from our crew lined up to cook breakfast in the am. Can't beat that!

Revct, the snow cover is actually deep in the areas where it is not wind blown, as we move off the coast we will begin to see how deep, snow forecast for the next several days so that will change things too! The coast just gets scoured by the winds. 

Tuesday Feb 28 Cartwright to Goose Bay

 

Well, some people like to find the miles of the greatest white sand beaches in the world, and go in February to get to hang out on them in 80 plus degree temps, loving every minute.

There are a few that  prefer the white beach, but like the temps at about 7 above zero, and want to glide down along these white beaches for miles on end!

That kind of best describes this morning!  Fantastic!

As I mentioned above, Today's ride was awesome as yesterday, 204 miles of winter wonderland, the first 50 miles was the bay out of Cartwright and the white beaches of Labrador. We had problems with sleds overheating on the bay, so off come the side panels for additional cooling, strap them to the rear and go, once we got to the beaches we had lube along the shore, and than the 125 mile run up Lake Melville, was hard but provided lubrication. 30 mph winds provided for white out conditions at times, but a picture perfect day to get into Goose Bay for mid afternoon. We were 1 and 1/2 hour ahead but are back now to Atlantic time. We had the cat destroy the primary clutch 40 miles out so that got towed in. We mat be here an extra day getting that resolved before we head west for Churchill. Our new additions to the group did great today. They are planning to continue on with us for the trip.

Here are some more pics of today's winter in The Big Land" ride!

Happy Trails in Goose Bay/ Happy Valley Labrador

DM, we deployed everything we had, all 4 scratchers were down on my free ride and that kept me from overheating, many of the other sleds needed all scratchers deployed and hoods off too. It was more the shorter 146 sleds that have a shorter heat exchanger. The 1200 checked out again, no failures changed , all grounds tightened, 90 miles of trouble free test riding this afternoon.  We are doubtful however.  We will get another chance tomorrow to test!

This trip definitely looks easier in pictures than in person, I can personally attest to this.  This trip must be taken with extreme caution as there are vast stretches between fuel and help.  Also many challenges with sea ice shelfs and unpredictable weather.  With the proper planning and supplies it can be done.

Revct, you are absolutely right, this trip probably sounds easy and trouble free.  We have had our mechanical issues, but generally great weather.  As the two boys from Quebec can attest. This is more challenging than it sounds at times. You need to be fully prepared or have a good guide and good coordinated riders.  Not to be taken lightly! 

We have both in Rob and the Team Maine riding group.  Many of us have ridden together for many years and understand Robs trips and what is expected. Put that together and you get an epic trip

Wed. March 1 Goose back  to Goose

 

Hearded west this am to break out trail to Cache river, back in Goose again tonight

Funny you should mention this,  CBC radio did an interview with Rob and Jean Guy this morning before our trail breaking run today

Today,  as we had mentioned,  the trail from here to Churchill is not broken,  so we figured we would break half today,  and the better half tomorrow.  We did get 75 miles open, but it was a full day.  Different riding for sure, but a blast!  Should sleep well tonight! 

Mark Pelley, here in Goose Bay has been awesome with support for us. He has provided his pick up for transporting around town and been around for anything we needed! Lots a great people here in the Big Land!

Yes rev, we got a full work up today, but as you know ,we do enjoy that too. And you are right the video does not capture that slope, once you committed, you were on gravity after that. We looked at it a long... time before committing lol!

  On 3/1/2017 at 5:38 PM, Scranton1 said:

 

I see an easy business'entrepreneurial opportunity with a tour!

Where do you sign up for next year?

I think Rob is considering that, only problem is Cains Quest, next year, takes tons of prep and his time. If someone has time this March let him know, he will provide info or assistance as your needs might require. As you can see he is an avid rider and loves promoting Labrador and northeastern Quebec, he  will help anyone who wants info on this trip. PM me or him, "early rider" if you want more

We had a way around , thank goodness, the FR154 is much more nimble in the deep stuff but does not have the bull capacity of an expedition, definitely a trade off. They both have their place!

 

 

Thurs  March 2 Goose to Churchill

 

Churchill Falls tonight from goose bay not any groomed or broken trail here

Yes he does, and you still cannot keep up with him. We joke about the sleigh, it has been thru Cain Quest when it was mandatory to yo drag a sleigh. It does not slow him down one bit!

It was a full day for sure, 185 miles of unbroken trail. many sleds stuck, 30 miles of ditch riding and 10 miles of trans Lab highway. But a blast still. A blue sky day this morning and some gorgeous power line running. Deep snow with now base in places, and settled snow on the wind blown areas. The Team Maine trailer and support crew provided fuel and food for the mid day as there is nothing in between. The Team Maine proto type 850 Freeride got put to its test today. It did very well!

Churchill is a company town for  the Churchill hydro power. The only civilization in central Lab.  Tomorrow off for Lab city!

The Trans Labrador trail was an initiative started a decade or 2 ago to connect the Labrador communities and promote tourism. It has fallen onto complete disrepair in the Remote regions of Labrador. The huge runs between these villages with minimal services created obstacles that they apparently could not overcome.  It's a big shame, because this ride and experience could be enjoyed by many with a commitment to better signage and trail maintenance, even if it was similar to the white road program in Cote Nord, where they use smaller more nimble machines to do the trail with, it would be awesome.

The scenert,people and hospitality in this region is second to none.  Just really great people!

The Trans Lab, Quebec loop would also take coordination between both Quebec FCMQ and Lab to make a success. That can be difficult too. 

Maybe it will come back sometime with a coordinated effort. Tourism is such an important part of local economies today.

It should be noted that some sections of trail activity are being done nicely. Fremont Quebec, to Lab city to Esker siding Lab are maintained on a regular basis, Goose Bay maintains an active schedule of grooming too. And the trail from Blanc Sablon thru too Red Bay are maintained.  Sections that would need attention are Red Bay to Goose Bay approx 400 miles, and . West of Goose Bay to Esker siding. Approx 220 miles of that section would need to be brought back into service. RR

 

 

Friday/Sat March 3 Churchill to Lab City 

 

It was -15F this morning in Churchill with a stiff northwest wind, putting wind chill numbers way down. We dressed accordingly and headed out. It was 120 miles up the Esker road from Churchill to Esker siding.  This road was built back when Churchill dam was constructed in the late 1960s. At that time no 500 road existed, so the only way to get construction equipment into the dam site was over this 100 mile road to Churchill. The Schefferville Sept Isle train unloaded the trucks, turbines,  trailers and construction equipment to be hauled in over this road.

In Churchill , which is a company town, for the power station,  the town center is like Mall village. The grocery store, school, hotel and restaurant and shops are all located in this company facility. Kind of neat

Today, It is not groomed but was fun to ride and imagine the activity 50 years ago. One of the structures for water control is pictured below. We stopped at Esker siding and got a fire going in the warming hut. Spent an hour thawing out gear than off to Lab City where Rob's wife Tina cooked us all an awesome home cooked meal of Baked ham, Mac and cheese, potatoes, green beans and muitiple types of salads and Rolls and deserts.  Wow that was awesome after ten days on the trail. A down day to tomorrow with minor sled adjustments and than off bright and early Sunday for Gabriel Quebec, near Manicougan reservoir.

Yes Skeld, I enjoy hearing about the history of how things developed both here in the Canada wilderness and our own North Maine Woods. Great stuff.  You mentioned the alders and brush that have grown into the TLT trail system that is no longer active. It's unfortunate, many of the warming huts that were placed along this network are also in disrepair. 100's of miles of grown in trails.

We were pleasantly greeted at Esker siding by the White Wolf snowmobile club trail system, maintained to perfection all the way to Lab City. The best trail conditions we have encountered in Lab. Compliments to this club!!

Sun March 5 Lab City Hold Over

DM, we were all OK without a day of riding however, we do have some minor repairs under way after one member found a rock on the power line into Church 2 days ago. Back and going by mid afternoon, ready for an early AM ride to Gabriel.

Snowfarmer, I agree, we just need a trail reporter riding with us like Iceman, his reports are the best!

 

 

Monday March 6 Lab City to Gabriel

"THE DAY"

 

What a gorgeous day to come down the St Marguerrite river and reservoir system today, after a 30 mile exploratory long cut on a trapper line at the end of our river run, looking for alternates routes into Gabriel and a 30 mile round trip partial recovery of Rob's expedition with a blown transmission shaft. We made it to Gabriel as a  late arrival ! All in a great day of riding. We still have recovery work to do tomorrow, some other sled issues to resolve, before the next leg to Forestville. Many more great parts to this story, will save for a later date, here are some pics of our 300 mile adventure today!

If we ever needed Iceman to scribe, it was yesterday! Ooh Ice ,why did you miss that opportunity? As mentioned earlier, there are lots of parts to this day, can only do justice once we get everything back together and sorted out. But the 11:07 pm arrival at Gabriel kind of helps set the stage.

For just a piece of yesterday, In order to get the busted expedition out of Lake Garemand and into the uniforest railsiding , where we left it for the night, we had to tag team 2 -154 sleds in line to pull the hills in the loose snow conditions. We kept those sleds tied together for the entire 15 mile pull into the abandoned  uniforest rail siding. More chapters from the beginning! Later on. RR

 

 

Sunday started like any normal big day ride, we are heading out for Gabriel, the only outpost between lab city Fermont area and the manicougan reservoir. What should have been a 250 mile ride thru some of the most remote areas we had ridden in. Rob is at peace here, he loves remote explorable areas and he has worked this area hard. Many of us have also scoured the area east of Gab on our early Dec rides that we have shared in previous years. So a few more of us are familiar with the area on the last half of the ride today. (Key to how this story plays out😉)

It was a cold, perfect blue sky morning as we drifted down the perfectly groomed trails out of lab city and Fermont. After the grooming ends, 30 miles or so, Finally we all get to run the river and lac systems of lab and Quebec and down onto the St Marguerite river and reservoir system that we have all watched Rob do from his spot beacon! Our missing link

There were five us. 2 completed their loop in Lab city as that is where Rob started from when he met us to the first day. But Rob is our leader and he will guide us down thru, The 1200 gremlin is in Rob's trailer to head south and they plan to meet us in Gab. We roll down thru the river systems , portage trails and trap lines that Rob has pieced together, making great time on a blue sky day. Into the "Wildlife Camp" time to refuel from our sleigh  and take a short break before we ride the "Falls" and down onto the reservoir. Things are going great, a few trail episodes of guys stuck ECT, but normal stuff. Rob winds us down the small , at this point,  but flowing St Marguerite river. He takes one of his Portage's around the Falls and Wamo! We are on the very upper end of the reservoir, very cool! High fives, gorgeous scenario of a big winding river bed, laid out ahead of us ,surrounded by mountains. Another 50 miles down stream and we are "relatively" at home in the shadow of the Grouix mtns. Our back yard!

Let's  roll! So down the river we go, "Wows"and "Oh My's" galore.

We arrive at our next stop, a cabin that has a retired gentlemen and his wife living in there during the winter and running trap lines. When you stop, the hospitality door opens wide, they love seeing and talking to Rob. Many of us have been here. It's all down hill now folks. We have a nice snack and Rob talks about a trap line that goes out near the old Port Cartier Fremont trail? Maybe we could just check this out? After all we are only 100 miles to Gab, in our "back yard"

Woops. Did I mention that we forgot one SAT phone in Rob's truck this am and Rob's survival bag got left behind? Also that Rob had borrowed fuel here a time before so we dropped that can off as we should be fine into Gab, it's only 100 miles and particularly if the last 45 miles has been broken open?  Nobody knows the answer to that question!

We are all feeling kind of giddy, Rob says let's go check out the trap line and punch that out. It may be a touch shorter, so we all head up the line with a brillant mid afternoon sunshine on our backs! The snow is deep, as we climb up one elevation, onto a lake, up another elevation on this perfectly smooth but very narrow trap line, over an open Brook, out onto a small bog, ah a little slob on this one, keep your sled going on this because you don't want to stop! This keeps going, obtain another pond, between a set of narrows and Robs sled nubs a "chunk of ice", near a real slobby area, I nub over that ice chunk as well and gas it up over the slob and into the woods on the other side. Kind of fun and this just may work thru?

No sleds coming? Finally after a bit three other sleds catch up. The " ice" was a big rock, the third sled stopped hard and the rider got tossed into shallow but now open water! All is fine!

We get to this next lake and the nice beat out trap line stops, no obvious trail off the lake as we completely circle the lake looking for a way out, Rob sees what looks like an unbroken trail and steams into the seem, and there he sits, bottomless snow and this needs to come out backwards!

It's a touch later now, we are 15 Mile's into this trap line. I do some quick math, 100 plus 15 in 15 out, is trail broken from the siding to Gab? We are starting to get to the end of our fuel range. This has gone from 250 to 280 . Rob's says "We will bust this out and find our own way thru tonight if it's the last thing I do"😲 ...I have heard that determination before...... This could be a long night.😊

We tug, snow bungie, dig and pull his sled out backwards. Early in the day this is fun, at 4 pm, its time to talk.  I do a silent look around the troops. I think we have a 4 to 1 vote to abort. You know who the hold out is!

Rob , realizing We are not Cain's Quest Champion caliber,  concedes, and back out we go.

We just might make Gab for 6:30 or 7pm. Nice!

On the way out, we talk to Rob about....  reborrowing.....the 5 gallons we just paid back at the trappers camp.? If the last 45 miles in is not broken we will lap up the fuel. Rob says OK, good idea, he will stop, and a few of us know the way, so just go, he will catch up. The trapper loves company and he loves Rob, can he get the fuel and move on ,or do they talk about his trap line, flying, ECT. We suspect it will be a bit of both, but Rob will run us down like we are peddling tricycles,  before we are half way to the siding, this is his and our back yard, we are home!

The first cardinal rule is never leave a guy to ride by himself, Even if he is your trip guide! We very seldom ever break that rule.

Second one is, if you break rule one, don't run beyond your comfortable fuel range in case the guy that is going to catch you does not catch you.  If the last 45 was not broke, well we probably just broke both rules! We were potentially beyond our range if we went back.

But this is Gardner behind us, he is chatting with the trapper, his light will be on our backs soon for sure. We do a POW WoW half way to the siding near a set big drifts in the road, we go down into the ditch for 300 yards to get around them. Should we hang here or just get to the siding, maybe the locals camp there has someone in, we will call Tina on the SAT phone and she can tell us that Rob is just behind us.(Oh yeah our phone is in the truck)! Well,  we have a back up " in reach " that will have to do.

Note, Rob's Spot battery had died sometime during the day as we find out in a bit!

Into the siding we go, a light is on, smoke from the wood stove, nice! We stop, leave one sled by the trail in case Rob goes flying by the camp. We go in and start the communication process. One guys speaks a few words of English, but he gets our drift. Offers us tea and coffee. We dig out the in reach! Let's start the communication process, sure wish we brought that SAT Phone!

Slowly we get text messages out and meanwhile Rob calls in to his Base Central,  Tina is that hub but she is in Gab, very limited access, so we found help  with a few others that are in the loop to liaison with.  What's up. He is "down" half way to the siding, walked 2 miles back to a camp and was hold up there he is fine!

This is about where we had our PoW WoW.

Our Gremlin expedition and riding partner that was in the truck with Tina and Guy, from relais Gab are breaking trail in to the siding with fuel. Ok we are good now, trail breaking in progress, additional fuel on the way, three of us , turn and burn for what we call "Tims" camp, that  is where he is held up. We leave one at the locals camp as our Communication director!

DM, Rob did not have snow shoes, and had left his survival bag behind. That included a tarp, jet boil,  fire starters, plus all the things you need to ride out a night. The last time a sled had been down this road was 2 weeks earlier when we met the boys in Port Cartier. It was their track from than. A couple of snow storms in between. The low spots were loose going, the hi spots wind blown. Either way not a fun walk. He did have our and his fresh tracks to walk in, but still not easy going. Because his spot was not working, no body knew exactly where he was other than his description over the phone. I felt I knew,  where he was but    Could not be 100% certain. Once we got to his sled, we proceeded very slowly in the dark,, watching his tracks in the trail, as we did not want to miss the point he turned off from and than run over our tracking evidence!  In the end he was exactly where we thought he would be. He did not hear us drive up, so when I opened the door into the cabin, he was surprised, he had a fire going and a box of craft Mac and cheese on the table ready to cook for supper. He thought he was there for the night and very comfortable with that!

As you have read about the recovery process, everyone one got home to...Gabriel.. 😉 We got tucked into our nice warm beds, albeit after mid night!

We read bed time stories and dreamed of things like the Blanche Road, white snow beaches and the Marguerite.

Relais Gabriel provided excellent accommodations and everyone lived happily ever after!

That is "The day".

The troops got sloppy and careless, let our guard down,  broke some rules,.... after all,....... "We were in our back yard"!  .....Lesson learned!

.

Tuesday March 7 Gabriel to Forestville

 

And than there was just three! Once we settled the carnage from yesterday's ride into Gabriel, we determined we had three operating...reliable...sleds to make the 300 plus mile run to Forestville. So with Rob's sled out in the bush still 50 miles east of Gabriel this am, a trailer that would haul the impaired sleds, we saddled up what was left running. We borrowed a couple of sleds from Relais Gabriel to assist for the sled recovery , and should I say Guy was awesome last night keeping track of who needed help and serving dinner at 11:30 last night for the crew, but any way , most of the broken down crew was tagged for Rob's sled recovery, and three of us head out for Forestville under gorgeous sky's, a beautiful Manicougan reservoir and a special treat of a herd do 25 to 30 Caribou on the Outarde reservoir, about 100 miles north off Baie Comeau. You can't beat that for the final run in. A nice 320 mile ride. A few of us made the entire loop on snowmobile without any transport for repairs or illiness. Now you just can't beat that!

The recovery crew was also very successful, bringing the carnage expedition into Gabriel by 12:30 and showing up in Forestville for a final dinner by 6pm

I will go back and revisit the Gabriel run later, lots of great stories and reflections.

Snow farmer, the boys from Montreal that we met in Cartwright, made it as far as Churchill with us. The tough ride from Goose bay to Church caused to realize they were not as prepared as they needed and had the wrong sled for that type of ride. They phoned home for a transport.

Of the 8 sleds that left, we had 4 sleds that made the loop and we're ridden every day, albeit minor repairs. Those sleds were the 3 Freeride 154s and a 146 standard  back country.

Robs extreme is a beast and is probably the most capable sled, but Rob way over uses the sled for what it was probably designed for we suspect!!😉 Hence the drive train problems.

There is no perfect sled, but for this trip a long track is your friend.

Yes DM , as you saw, the original sleigh horse had to be put down

The 45 miles of the manicougan was awesome, the Outarde was rough, but a straight line is better at times and many of the logging roads can be hard going if unbroken, or troughed out if Sleds have been down them!

 One freeride has a bent tunnel but made the complete trip, 1 freeride changed brake pads, (he completed his loop in Lab City,) 1 freeride changed carbides, the standard back country still has front end issues  (we did repairs in Lab city) but made the entire trip.

The 1200 gremlins never did clear out making the sled untrustworthy for putting deep into the bush, was used for recovery work yesterday though.

 

 

Iceman, glad to to hear you're appetite for this type of riding is active. You guys had a great trip with a good bunch of guys!

Rob is the guy, and he will help you any way he can. Reach out to him when you wish, be lives to talk snowmobiling and flying!

 

RR

This trip from Forestville, returning to Forestville was 2600 miles

We all agree, this was one of our best trips! Not doable without the extensive support provided by Rob and Tina of Team Maine. Thank you for making this an awesome trip experience

 

 

In the truck and back to Maine tomorrow.

Think Snow

RoadRunner

 

 

 

 

Rob, sent me this article from his notes from this same trip that he did in Feb and March of 2006. I had read these notes years ago but had lost the article. This was during a time when they were still trying to get the Lab loop up and going.  Still amazing how many of the observations and experiences were similar to this last trip and than the differences. Enjoy RR

Hello Everyone,

I would like to start by thanking all of you for your support and best wishes while on our journey around Quebec and Labrador. This is to be a day-by-day account of our trip with as much detail as I can. I am not a writer so bear with me on this.

This is the experience’s on our trip. The few people have ever done this trip may have different experiences based on the weather, trail conditions and information. I will say that for most of the trip a WELL-prepared advanced Snowmobiler can do this trip using guides and the snow bus (we did not however). I feel that there are people that have offered information about areas of this journey that never actually did it. There are major discrepancies with their accounts of trails, lakes, landmarks, and the biggest mileage (one was off by a 100 miles). There are areas of this trip that the locals do not ride and I would not do again if I was faced with the same conditions. This is Labrador and as much as people would like the glory of saying they have done it, this is an extreme environment and could easily cost someone there life if not well prepared. Do your own research, make contacts, rely on your self, trust yourself and lead yourself. If everything went well this would still be a hard trip, just from the lack of grooming and signage alone. The groomer’s in these areas have large area’s to do. When they say just groomed, to them it means that is has been done in the last few weeks. As I am typing this very post, 3-16-06 we received word from Tammy in Goose Bay that there is a group from Ontario that is trying this trip now and have had a very hard go of it thus far. They have hired Bruce from Rigolet (who you will meet later in this story) to guide them on the trail from Rigolet to Goose Bay. They must have been unprepared or they have had a bad run with the weather as this section was one of our easiest days.

The fun really started before leaving on this trip, as many of you know. I have had problems with my 1000 Renegade most of the season. On the original day we were supposed to leave, I lost the motor in my sled while in a test session, the trip ended up getting delayed again Matt and Jim were so anxious to leave, that they suggested I take one of my 121” track sleds. There was no way I was going to Labrador on a 121” anything let alone a 600 SDI. We had decided that our new departure would be on Tuesday. I purchased a 06 800X Renegade for the trip on Sunday (Thanks Dave). We were getting down to the wire and still had some loose ends that we needed to wrap up. Such as the satellite phone which was supposed to be handled by one of the other guys. It came down to a gut feeling of his that, we would not really need it. (Do not try this trip without one as he found out) My wife drew the line in the sand if you will “you will not leave until you have a Satellite phone” so off she went to get one. The next issue was gas. When we went to load to leave, the boys had only made provisions to carry 2.5 gallons extra on Matt’s 06 M-7 LTD 153” and 3 gals on Jims 06 1000X Renegade. After insisting that we also take a 2.5 gallon can that I had bought two of, fearing this very situation. Jim and I could now carry 6 gallons extra on each Gade using two-quart oil containers once empty. We started with the 2.5 gallon cans full of oil (this is important later). Matt had made provisions to carry two quarts of oil, and as you, cat guys know that is not enough. My comment to Jim was “if you ever want to see a guy spend money on oil watch Matt this trip.” Some of the other items we were carrying are bow saws, axe, pruning saw, tool kits, first aid kit, survival kit, tent, flares, tin cups, sturno, starter logs, butane lighters, candles, MRE’S two each, Penicillin, Demerol, beef jerky, protein bars, sewing kit, two spare belts each, extra plugs, spare desk cords, gauntlets, spare gear, cloths, rain suits, spare helmet parts, spare Collett, along with other items. Jim and I ran two sets of bags and I had a backpack so as you can guess we were heavy. We are now ready to start our adventure.

Day one, February 28th
We left here around 10 A.M. on Tuesday morning. We had decided that today would be a driving day and our destination would be Riviere-du-Loup. We decided that this would be the best and would give us a short day after getting off the boat in Matane on our last day. We had also all been sick up to this point, so another day to rest would help as well. We stopped at Jackman Power Sports to get some last minute supplies and check on my 1000 Gade. We rolled into Riviere-du-Loup around 4:30 P.M.
We got checked in and got keys to the heated garages that they offer at the Universal Hotel. We then went out back to unload the sleds. We took the Ski Doo’s out and began to pull the 153” out of my 22’ trailer (no reverse, again important to keep in mind) when I realize this is going to be a long trip. I asked Matt “is the brake off?” a simple reply of “opps” says it all. We get back to the room to find that Jim had lost the room key. We decided that Jim would no longer be in charge of keys. After dinner I installed a Collett Communicator on Matt’s helmet, we had a couple of cocktails and went to bed. We called for a 5 A.M. wake up call.

Day 2, March 1st
Overcast and -8F 260miles Riviere-du-Loup to Port-Cartier
We were up at 5 am, dressed, and out the door by 5:30 a.m. We headed off to the new Relais on trail TQ 5 in Saint-Marcellin for coffee and breakfast. We spent a little to long there and then we are off to meet the boat in Matane for a 2pm crossing (they want you there 1 hour early). We rolled into Matane at 12:30pm with time to spare, Jim and I looked back, and Matt was nowhere around. I asked Jim “when did you see him last?” He replied, “He was right behind me at the road crossing” Matt ended up following the wrong group of sleds into town. Jim and I decided that it might be best to keep Matt between us for the rest of the trip. We fueled the sleds and made a quick stop at Wal-Mart for a camera battery before we headed to the ferry. As we get to the dock the smaller of the ferries is trying to leave but can’t get thru the ice, after many tries it came to a stop 1500 feet from the dock. The small ferry is stuck in the ice. The N.M. Camille-Marcuox a larger ferry that can carry 120 vehicles is on its way into port. After docking unloading and reloading, we were off. The Marcoux makes several tries to free the smaller ferry by running by it on both the starboard and port sides. The boat is finally unlodged from the ice and it follows the Marcoux out to the Saint-Laurent. Jim and I debate the conditions of the trails and terrain that we are about to ride, it seems that we have very different views as to what we are going to encounter on or trip. This would be why he had suggested that I run the 121”. The crossing usually takes 2 hours and 15 mins but due to helping the other boat, we were late. We docked and were off again at 5:30 pm with 80

Day 3 March 2nd
Heavy overcast -20F 250 miles Port- Carttier to Havre-Saint-Pierre
While putting our bags on we decide that it was a bit cold out so figured we would give it some time, have some coffee, and toast before heading out. We pulled out around 6:30am even though the temperature hadn‘t seemed to change any. The trails as far as the Moisie River were beautiful. Once across the Moisie River there were no markers or grooming the trail just ended. We doubled back to the store on the other side of the river. She told us that the trail was not open from there to Riviere-au-Tonnerre, which was to be our next gas stop and from there it would be open. While Jim and I review our options Matt is inside arranging a tow truck, (Jim and I are not aware of this). Dblacks, Dave Jim and I ran this trail past this point last year, so Jim and I decide that we are somewhat familiar with the trail and decide to press on. I also felt that we needed to get used to finding our way because there was going to be more of this to come. Still no Matt, I enter the store “are you coming or what?” he replies, “I ’m having her call a tow truck” I respond “no your not, let’s go were riding out”. Very unsure of this plan he put on his helmet and off we went. It was tough to find our way breaking trail; we chased camp trails and looked for any old sign’s or markers. We arrived at Riviere-au-Tonnerre to find gas but no groomer or signs had been there all year. We had been told that Havre-Saint-Pierre had been out just south and north of town. So we headed off to try to find our way again. With daylight closing fast and still no maintained trail we opt for the snow covered road until we reached Mingan an Innu (native) community. It was a very strange place we top off our sleds and asked where the trail was. We went about 2 miles down this trail, when I decided this was not our trail and stopped to turn around. As we do a Native man of 17 years, old or so slides up beside us, he motions for us to follow him. While following him I noticed that he was wearing only a ball cap, sunglasses, blue jeans, and tennis shoes holly tough it is well below 0F. He brought us to the trail where we rode groomed trails for the next 25 miles into Havre-Saint-Pierre. We were short of our goal for the day due to the trails not being open; we had planned to be in Natashquan another 100 miles east. The terrain has changed so much today that you cannot really explain it. It has become very vast and open. Jims sled started having the same troubles as my 1000. It happened twice just today. At one point I did not see a big drift and darn near went over the bars. The 153” blew a few corners but for now, all is good. We made it to the Hotel just as the clerk had locked the door. We got our room and settled in for a cocktail (did I mention that we are also carrying alitte Rum) Jim and I come to the same thought, why are we doing this trip and for so many days? As the Rum flows, the thought fades. The words I was waiting to hear straight from Jim “you never would have made it thru on a short track today” Bingo, Now it is starting to set in that maybe he has underestimated this trip a little. We called a cab. The driver Theo was very informative about the area. The population of the town is about 3500. He dropped us at a great restaurant where the food was great and the server, Julie was witty as well. Jim’s phone does not work to call home. We had a great day. We were off to bed with a 5:30 am wake up call.

Day 4 March 3rd
Very overcast +20F 245Miles Havre-Saint-Pierre to Chevery
Well we got up on time and debated whether we should ride our sleds out or get trucked out. The trail was only going to be groomed and marked for a few miles out of town. It was my opinion that we ride out and deal with what we were handed. Jim and Matt were leaning towards getting trucked out. I tried to tell them that by the time we organized this and dealt with three of us plus a ramp truck driver that two of us were going to have to ride on the sleds on the back of the ramp truck for 100 miles, we would be there. So we decided that we were going to go by sled. We were locked out of the lobby so the continual breakfast was not going to happen. Jim and I do not do well without coffee. We finally leave by sled at 7:00am. The trail was unbelievable just what the doctor ordered; keep in mind that we had expected to have good trails the whole way to Natashquan the day before. 20miles, 30miles, 40miles, wow were doing well. Just as Jim and I laughed and commented that we were gald we had chosen to ride out the groomed trail ended. We were back to finding our way with what ever means possible. At this point, we were about 200 miles past where any of us have ever ridden before on this trail. So without to much time wasted we hit the road again. We could not wait to get to Natashquan, where the road ends any time of year. The Quebec government maintains the trail from there to Old Fort or Vieux-Fort (Quebec border) it has to be groomed or so we were told. The trail is the only means of travel (other than small plane) to these parts until the supply boats begin to run in April. As we make our way down the side of the road, Jims sled quits two more times. Now my mind is in overdrive. If it quits all together anywhere between Natashquan and Goose Bay we are going to have a long delay getting it fixed, as there is no road out until Goose Bay. The road that begins in Blanc-Sablon and goes to Cartwright is only accessible by the ferry from Newfoundland, which does not run again until April. In the winter, it is also closed from Red Bay to Lodge Bay. We made our way down the road to Aguanish. In Aguanish we were able to get on the trail again but no coffee or meal. (We were however able to buy more Rum) The trail was marked but not groomed. We then headed to Natashquan (which is another Innu reserve) where the map says we can get coffee and food. We got to Natashquan and stopped to ask a fellow along the trail about food and coffee, he replied “no restaurant here but there is a store.” We headed off to get a coffee at the store. After circling the village, not finding the store, we decided that we were better off to hit the trail and try again in the next town. At this point, I took a deep breath as the road that had helped us so much ends. From here on in there were no bailouts. While leaving town we are caught behind a large group of Innu, which slows us down for about 20 miles. They stopped and we headed on, now we were on the Government maintained trail. Well Jim said it best “a blind man with 30 foot stick could find his way on this trail.” It was amazing I never have seen anything marked even close to this. There was no grooming , at this point it was clear what we were in for the next 300+ miles until we got to Labrador. The next village we stopped at was English speaking. Kegaska has a population of about 300 people. We stopped at the Relais owned and operated by Phil and Tammy. They are great people. They also own the store. Phil is also a fishermen. They answered all our questions and there were many. They explained more about the supply boats, travel in the area, and schools. The kids in They explained more about the supply boats, travel in the area, and schools. The kids in this village leave home from the 9th grade thru 12th grade and live in dorms in the village of Chevery 90 miles away. They have 6 miles of roads in town. They own cars and trucks but there is no access to any other roads. They have to bring cars and such in by barge. Once snow arrives in these villages, none of the roads are plowed. Phil explained to us, that winter is liberating for them. They can easily travel from village to village. He also told us that we should stay in Chevery. The next village was an Innu reserve, which was not much of a place to stay. After getting coffee, a great bowl of soup, and a full tank of gas we were off to Chevery. This was our first cup of coffee with Grand Mere milk, it was not very good. The village of La Romaine was, as Phil had stated, not much. The amount of lakes that we rode to complete our travel to Chevery was surreal to say the least. We pulled into Chevery around 4:30 or so. While looking for gas Jim stops to ask a local “where is gas station?” as the man points at his other hand holding the gas nozzle he replies, “Right here” (you had to be there, way too funny). We headed to the motel to find the bar and restaurant. They gave us a room and told us to come back for dinner at six. That works for us time for a cocktail and shower before dinner. After a warning from Jim to be careful on the floor (tile) of the room because we had tracked snow in and the floor was wet, Matt landed flat on his can. None of us had cell service so we took out the satellite phone to call home. It was a night to remember. We had drinks and dinner with the owners daughter and son in law (Jody and Wesley) as the owners where gone to camp, this is a pattern that repeated itself in all these areas of Quebec and Labrador. Jim and I still struggled to understand the need to get away when you live in a remote village with a population of about 600 people. Chevery is not even accessible by supply boat so they have their supplies dropped in Harrington Harbour and barge them in. They have a 21-mile sandy beach in Chevery. Wesley gave us jars of canned crab from his catch the year before. Wesley was great with all the questions we asked, he explained that in almost all the coastal villages that the men leave to work for the summer and come back in the winter. Most people collect EI (Employment Insurance) which pays them 1000 dollars every two weeks. Wesley works year round for the town. Poly the cook fixed us a great meal. As it turns out, she was the sister of a guy we met on the ferry ride from Matane. We spent the rest of the evening drinking and playing darts. A great time was had by all. It was a late night to bed.

Day 5 March 4th
Very overcast 15F 140 miles Chevery to L’anse-au-Clair
Well we asked for 5:30 a wake up call instead Wesley had opened the door and asked, “Should I shovel the snow on you or use the snow blower?” It was a short night. We packed up, had coffee and eggs and were on the trail by 6:30am. Well we did not get very far before we found the sled of a drunk Innu that had left the bar the night before. We took a quick look around and on we went. I had not traveled more than 25miles for the day when I blew a belt with no warning on a lake crossing. After about 45 minutes of taking turns digging out the cords from behind the clutch, we felt we had it all out and pressed on. Since we left Port Cartier, we have seen very few travelers in a day, maybe one or two if lucky. A tree stripped of limbs and placed every 25 feet marks the trials here. Where they cannot due to rock they build, these little tee pees for the lack of knowing what else to call them. They are three on the ground and three upright tied where they cross. We rode miles and miles and miles of lakes, rivers, salt-water bays, today. I would dare to say that we rode more water than land by a fair margin. It was a very overcast day making it hard to see. This made it hard to enjoy. The terrain is more and more rock, and more and more bearen. We all struggle to come up with a way to explain the terrain, we finally settle on the moon with snow. We reached Old Fort or Vieux-Fort at 1:30pm. We went to fuel the sleds, and an old fellow named Garland came out to unlock the old pump. As he walks towards us, he asked, “You boys aren’t headed for the woods are you?” After the third time he asks, I asked, “Why where is the trail?” well there is no trail this year as the Sea Ice is not safe. There in the dooryard of the station is a crew cab with a four-place trailer, loaded however; it is the Ski-Doo dealer dropping a sled to a guy riding up from Saint-Augustin. He made a call to Chad of the Northern light Inn to tell him we needed a ride. While waiting Jim and I spring into action with the questions about the village, power, supplies, population, work, housing, and the fish plant. Garland did his best to fill our eager minds. Chad showed up around 3:00pm and we were off to L’Anse-au-Clair Labrador. Along the way, he pointed out the bay that is usually the trail. It would have been one wet ride. We fill his ear with our trip up to this point and the poor signage we have had. He is trying hard to promote riding Labrador. He wants us to have a good ride, so once we get back to his hotel he makes some calls to see what we are in for. We settled in for a cocktail and rejoiced in the fact that we were in Labrador. As we waited for dinner, Chad treated us to some pan-fried Cod. He also gave us each a shirt that says simply “Only the Experienced Ride Labrador” then tells us that it is not looking much better for us as a big storm was to the north all day and expected to be there the next day. He explained that the groomers in Labrador have huge area’s to cover and some trails may only see a groomer a few times a year. He tells us that the Cartwright groomer had passed on the land trail to Rigolet and it took them 6 days to get to Lake Melville and 3 days to get back on a 140-mile trail. This was a new trail two years ago and marked for the first time just last year. That was the first time that the groomer had ever been on that trail. They made the trail so that the travelers could get from Cartwright to Ringlet without having to hire a guide and ride the sea ice. He thought that it would be our first chance at a good trail. He also explained that they had 56 inches of snow the week before and not much before that so it was making things hard. He insisted that when we reached Red Bay we ride the road to Lodge Bay, as the trail across the barrens was not well marked and with the storm, we would not find our way. Matt’s beat up at this point, it is his first ride of the year. He went to bed early. He needs it tomorrow is a big day.

Day 6 March 5th
Overcast blowing snow 30F 290 miles L’anse-au-Clair to Cartwright

We asked for a 5:30 wake up only to find that we could not get any coffee or breakfast until 7:00am. Ordinarily we would have just headed out but Chad had been good to us, so we decided to hang out until he showed up. We like to get all the daylight we can and try to be in early. Most days we will ride until mid morning then stop to eat. We then ride until we are done for the day and have supper. Today we did not end up leaving until8:30am. As we were leaving, Jim and I stressed to Matt that we needed to pick up the pace a little today. As we rode out of town, I did just that, right into a drift, which sent the sled into a nose dive with me jumping so that the sled would not land on me. It drove the ski tip into the bumper and broke the bumper but other than that, all was good. We were on our way again in a matter of minutes. I then got us mixed up trying to get thru Pinware. We ended up on a goat path in the middle of nowhere. After exploring all our options, we ended up at a pile of maker sticks (witch Matt was sure was a woodpile). We decided to go back to town. While on our way back to town we saw that the groomer had gone down a trail we had missed when crossing the road. We stopped the groomer and made sure we were going the right way. He was one of the people we had met the day before in Old Fort. He let us know that due to the storm we should not expect to make it to Cartwright today. When we reached Red Bay, we found that the road was not open, as Chad had said we would. It did not take us long to find out what be careful of the rock cuts meant. In the blinding snow I rode off the edge of one, it was a nice soft landing, but now I am in the bottom of this thing and have to ride the whole length of it to get it out. As we made our way towards Lodge Bay, the snow got deeper and deeper until we were riding in about three feet. We barely made it to fuel in Lodge Bay because Jim and I have yet to use the last of our oil and we were only carrying 3 gallons extra of fuel. Matt was only carrying 2.5gallons extra at this point. After seeing many gas stops on the map between Lodge Bay and Cartwright by trail, we decided to wait on putting gas in the 2.5 gallons blue cans. While Matt was paying, I was eyeing the road that had been plowed from this point with 6 in of snow still in it. I told Jim “we need to run the road” he replies “Why” I answered, “because the trail has three feet of snow and we need to make up time.” After a brief thought that becomes the plan at least to Charlottetown, which is the last chance to gas and get on the trail. Once we arrived at this point, we decided that the road is going well and we had enough gas so on we went. A few miles down the road, I stopped to cool the clutches and take a pic or two. We all laughed and commented on how good the going is and that we would be in Cartwright in no time. Jim takes the lead and we are off. We get down the road and all of a sudden, the plowed road ended. We then had to ride in the three feet of snow awaiting us in the road. We put the 153” in front and fell in behind him. At first, Matt was going way to fast, but We reminded him that gas was going to be an issue and that he needed to slow down. It went good with the 153” in front. He ended up buried at one point. As the fuel ran low and dusk came I, decided to break out the Satellite phone called the wife and asked her to let Dwight at the Cartwright Hotel know we were on our way and that we may be a little short on fuel. I also let him know that once we arrived we needed gas, food, and a place to dry gear. The road had been plowed again once we reached Paradise River. We went about 7 miles, met Dwight, and his brother Perry with fuel. We decided to run the sleds in to see if we would have made it. We made it, well Matt ran out in the dooryard of the hotel. We missed the gas station by an hour to be fueled up for the next morning. Remember the 2.5 hours that we left late this morning are now back to haunt us. After I insisted that Matt carry more gas, we arranged to borrow a 5-gallon gas can of Perrys and drop it with Marty in Goose Bay his hometown. We got our gear in the dryer and went to have dinner and a cocktail. Jim had no cell service. Matt and I had service. We asked for a wake up call at 5:30 am. I ask again, why we cannot get gas until 9:30am. We needed 50 gallons. Someone must be willing to open for 50 gallons and a nice tip. Dwight assures me that they will not open. We debated the sea trail or land trail to Rigolet. I reminded Matt and Jim that the groomer turned around 4 days ago and all that snow we pushed on the road today awaits us on the trail. That is why I pressed so hard for Matt to carry more fuel. Off to bed we went it had been a long hard day.

Day 7 March6th
Overcast Blowing Snow 20F 180 miles Cartwright to Rigolet
As we waited for fuel, the debate continued on which way to go to Rigolet. Hire a guide and do the sea ice which none of us are loving the sound of, or take the land trail. Dwight made a few calls and was told that it had not snowed that hard inland and the Ski-Doo support sleds for the groomer said the trail was good. There where two sleds coming from Rigolet that we would meet and the trail would be broken open half way. So after getting gas and filling all our cans ($240.00 Can, I still say we could have gotten them to open) we headed out around 10:30am. This is a very late start for a long day. We decided to run the road back to Paradise River to get the land trail and save the gas pushing snow to get to that point. That did not last long at first it was not bad except for that the groomer had run thru with the blade up and no drag so you had that big ridge in the middle of the trail. As we went out and the groomer had passed before the storm the snow changed quick and deep. If you got off where the groomer had been, which you could not see due to the new snow you where going to sink out of sight. I stopped at one point to cool the clutches and noticed the lip ring spring from the crankshaft seal was in the bottom of the belly pan. This is not good. Jim and I looked it over and decided that with a sealed bearing it would be all right for a while. I continued to lead for the first 65 miles of this when I came to a big clearing I stopped no Matt no Jim. Looking at my gauge, I dumped my 2.5 gallons can in the tank. I debated with myself to turn us back or give the 153” a run in the front. After digging Jim out the boys came along and we decided to run the 153” in the lead. I will add that the entire time I lead with the Gade I was never stuck once. Hand it to the Gade it is a good deep snow sled if you have the gas to burn. After that, we were each stuck countless times usually while trying to find the trail. Many times the snow was waist deep plus on me and I had not found bottom. At one point, I was stuck and Jim came to help but I was off the trail and he sank nipple deep. This went on for hours with slow movement. The hardest part of being stuck was getting to the sled that was stuck. By the time, you made your way to the sled you would have to stop and take a break. Jim was stuck many times just because the sled would die when he would try to give it the gas. In waist deep snow, trying to stay in Matt’s tracks Jim hit a tree right in the right ski. Bent either the cross member or lower a arm not sure which yet. Matt all of a sudden remarks, “I’m not going to make it on fuel” I replied “None of have enough gas to make it to town” You should have been there to see his face. You have to understand that this trail is in the bush there is nothing not even a power line for 140 plus miles. This is one of the two most remote trails on this trip. He tried to get me to take out the satellite phone and call for help but I refused. To dig out the satellite phone I would have had to remove all my gear on the sled. I have to do the same to remove the last three gallons of gas. This takes almost a ½ hour and I did not want to dump my last 3 gallons of fuel until I was completely out so that I could figure how many more miles I could go before I called. We were also on the losing side of daylight and I did not want to waste the extra ½ hour of sunlight. We pressed on until I heard Matt say “I can’t get thru that! Get Rob up here“. I am third in line so I look off to my right to see a trail sign 5 feet below me on a tree. We are at the end of a lake and this is one hell of a drift. This is going to be bad I thought to myself. I pulled around Jim and beside Matt to be stuck in the top of a 12-foot drift. At that point, I gave in and got out the satellite phone I opened the case to discover that I had left it on the night before and the battery light was flashing. I did not bother to let the guys know this because they where already nervous at this point, especially Matt. After attempting to call 10 times, I could not get a signal because the clouds and storm were too thick. I finally got thru to Max in Rigolet who was not very eager to help. His first comment was “what are you doing on that trail no one rides that trail; very few locals have ever run that trail.” I explained that we were not lost and that we were on the trail, and down to almost three gallons of gas each and that we were still going to be moving but would not have enough gas to get to town. I told him that I thought we would almost make it to Lake Melville (a 100 mile long tideial saltwater bay) He stressed that we not attempt to cross the lake in the dark that there was a lot of open water. He said that he would send out guys with gas that knew the trail better than he did. We started the task of getting the sleds thru the drifts by me running into the first one as fast as I could. I did not make it. The sled launched in the air and landed on it side, but on top of the drift. I will sum up by saying that it took 1.5 hours to move 150 FEET. I reminded the guys as long as were on the trail we’ll continue to move but as soon as we lost the trail we would have to turn back to the last place we were sure of being on the trail and set up camp. We also decided that when one of us is out of gas we are all stopping to set up camp and that we were prepared to stay in the woods if need be. As we all started to run out of gas, we would only dump a little in at a time so as not to have one sled with 2 gallons and the others none. I dumped the last 2 quarts in the sled and called Max again “we’re 1.2 miles from the lake” I told him “Gas is on the way and do not try to cross the lake” he responded. We went another ¾ of a mile and here come the lights of three sleds. They gave us each a five gallon can and instructed us to follow them the 30+ miles to Rigolet. We had burned 17 gallons of fuel each in 136 miles. Once in town we discovered that it was the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and two search and rescue people. He took our names and stated that the fuel was on them. We arrived at our room at 10 pm it was $100 for the room and 25 for food, which consisted of two cans of stew, hot dogs, 12 eggs and crackers. They opened the little store so we could buy a drink. Remember the 2.5 hours we left late in Lanse-au-Clair on Sunday, had that not happen we would have made Cartwright in time for fuel and left there at 6:00am instead of 11:00am. We would have had a much different view of this day if we were in by 6pm. No cell service for any of us to call home. Couple of cocktails and off to bed.

Day 8 March7th My birthday
The first day of sun 20F 130 miles Rigolet to Goose Bay
Well were up and at it early even though we could not get gas until 9:30am. As you can tell by reading this, time to these people means very little. It is a very laid-back stress free life. Jim was so dry that he drank some of the water, which was yellow in color. I wanted to but could not bring myself to do it. We are not worried about a late start today we have decided to stop at our goal for yesterday and spend some time with Marty and Tammy at Goose River Lodges. They had tracked us down because we did not arrive per plans. Marty went looking and was getting ready to start calling. We let them know that we had no real meal all day the day before and had gear that was soaked to the core we wanted to get dried out if possible. We also asked if she could get us some real milk or cream for a coffee (sounds petty but at this point its huge). Next a call from Labrador Winter Trails. Lori has heard of or previous day and wanted to be sure everyone was all right. I told her that we are all fine but the information we were getting in all the community’s was poor at best and signage was a major problem. She let me know that it just so happened that they were headed to Lake Melville to mark the crossing on Wednesday. Bruce, one of the search and rescue guys showed up around 8am. What an intelligent man. He has degrees in a few areas. He is in charge of the trails around Rigolet and wanted to know why we were ever told to take that trail. Well that was easy Dwight at the Cartwright Hotel. He let us know that no one uses that trail not even the locals and that as far as he knew, himself and the crew that marked the trail are the only ones to ride it from end to end. From talking with others including presidents of the clubs it seems that we are the first traveler’s to ever cross the trail. The Sea Ice is much shorter and a lot less challenging he explained. The trail is only there because Labrador Winter Trails controls the money and there needed to be a land trail for Cartwright to get their money. He offered to load the track for the Sea Ice trail as well as the trail to Goose Bay into my GPS. He stated that we would not need it if we were good enough to find our way from Cartwright by the land trail, but it would not hurt to have it. He told Jim and I where the good store was and went to load my GPS. Jim and I took a ride around the village, taking pictures of trucks and cars buried to the roofs with snow. As we spent a little time in the village and the store, we begin to realize these people were unfriendly, nothing like Bruce who went out of his way to help us. Jim was standing on the porch waving at people passing by and no one would acknowledge him. Bruce returned and we asked him about it, he simply replied, “that he was not from Rigolet, and that he spent most of his days in Northern Labrador” “North of here?” I asked he laughed. Rigolet is an Inuit Village (native Eskimos). According to him many of the villages do not get along and do not work together well adding to the trail problem, we noticed the animosity between villages ourselves. After finally getting fueled up we headed off to Goose Bay (no coffee again). Short day but again we were due for a day of rest. He offered to ride out with us and show us more of the village. As we ride out the views are unbelievable the sun makes all the difference. This is the first time we have seen the sun in a week. About 10 miles out he pulled off and wished us well on our travels. We snapped a picture of him and were off. I picked up the pace a little now that it just us, and within 2 miles Jim and I here the familiar call from Matt over the radio “Guy’s I’m stuck again come help” Jim and I turned around and go back to pull him out. It seemed that now there were more trees, and running off the trail when you miss a corner is not an option. Matt was having a hard time to get the 153 around corners falling off several times. Good running for most of the way, until we reached a 20 miles section that they had only run the groomer and no drag thru. What a slow going pain in the butt that was. We traveled a long section of the lake, on the lake I hit a major slob hole, before I could yell in the radio Jim hit it, how he pulled it off with out going over the bars is beyond me. We reached North West River toped off with fuel and headed for Goose Bay from there in was awesome. Finally a trail like we are used to riding I couldn’t help it I took a little jab at Jim “Jimmy” I called over the radio “I’m here” he replies “Look it’s the groomed trail you been promising we were going to ride for the last five days” as I laughed to myself he quickly responds “shshshsh you’ll jinx us”. Sure enough, Jim blew his first belt. We got to Goose River Lodges at 2:45pm and fueled up the sleds. Matt returned Perry’s gas can to Marty and borrowed a 6-gallon can from Marty. He could now carrying 8.5 extra gallons of gas. We got our laundry together and Tammy dried our gear. We had a couple of cocktails and then went to dinner. We had an excellent beef stew. Matt turned in early (as usual). Jim and I called home on my phone, he still has no cell service. We ask Marty for a 5:30am wake up. We wanted to get back on track with our departure times. He offered to ride part of the way out with us, but it would not be far because he was flying to Newfoundland later in the day. We agreed. He told us where we would meet a friend of his with gas so we could make a hard run to Churchill Falls and not worry about fuel in hopes to take the 1pm tour of the plant. Off to bed

Day 9 March 8th
Sunny again two days in a row. -20f to start Goose Bay to Churchill Falls 190 miles
We were finally back on track. We got up early and had breakfast at 6:00am, with real cream for the coffee. Jim could not be happier. Marty showed us all the short cuts out of town. It was good because we needed to be in Churchill Falls by 1pm if possible. We never really saw much of Goose Bay because their place was out of town. We rode out to Upper Brook where the trail crosses the road and there was a young man there waiting for us with fuel. We toped off the sleds, Jim gave him a $20 tip and we were off. We could now hammer down because fuel would not be an issue. We did not make it very far before the trail went back to being just packed by the groomer after the Goose Bay turn around. It was actually harder to ride the packed groomer path than breaking a foot of snow. We went about 30 + miles when I was just about to ask Jim “Where the heck did this guy leave his drag?” We found the drag and the Piston Bully 200 groomer that was out of Labrador City. Marty had told us that it would be out there because Churchill Falls was not doing there part to maintain the trail. Marty told us that we might see some Caribou in this area, so we were doing a little rubber necking (never did see a live Caribou). We had great trails all the way to Churchill Falls. We stopped at the gas station. We were about 10 minutes late for the 1pm tour so we figured we had some time to kill. Wouldn’t you know they had our rum and we were out, perfect. We went to the Hotel in the City Center Building to get a room. We checked in and called home (no cell service for Jim). We checked out the building it houses the school, post office, gym, grocery store, bank, hotel, swimming pool, library, restaurant, and a hand full of other things. This is a company owned town. If you do not work at the Hydro Plant, you cannot live there. When you retire, you have to leave. We met some young guys that were on sleds at the gas station. They had never ridden to Goose Bay or Lab City; they stick to their own community. We went to the bank to exchange more money. Jim was out of luck, his new bankcard would not work. I loaned him some cash. He is not impressed to say the least. We went back to the room for a few cocktails and cards before dinner. We had a 7pm tour of the Hydro Plant (IT IS NOT A DAM) which after a couple of cocktails we seemed to keep saying. Jim tried to place a collect call home only to find that his phone has a block keep saying. Jim tried to place a collect call home only to find that his phone has a block on collect calls. This will stay on his mind for days. After a drink or two coupled with his phone and bankcard troubles, Matt and I cannot help ourselves this is just way too funny. Julie the tour guide picked us up at the hotel and took us to an information center where we watched a film on the plant. What these people did in this remote area in the 60’s is unbelievable. After watching the video we head thru security and into the plant. We get on an elevator that drops 990 feet in 1min45secs. You end up in an under ground solid granite power plant. I would go into detail but it would take 10 pages alone. I will say that it is necessary do if ever in Churchill Falls. After the tour, we went back to our room and Matt went straight to bed. Jim and I talked about the trail to Port Cartier and the boat schedule to cross back over. We need to be in Godbout by 10 am on Saturday to get the boat. We called for a 5:30 wake up call and went to bed.

Day 10 March9th
Sunny but cold -15F Churchill Falls to Lab City 235 miles
We got up to a biting cold morning. We get geared up and head out. In staying with the rest of the communities, the signage is nonexistent. I cannot understand why there are no signs in the middle of a community. People in this area could care less if travelers come or not. The worst part is the guys at the gas station were bragging about all their time off. You would think that as a snowmobiler they would lend a hand and help the trail system. We found our way out of town after about 20 minutes. Matt struggled with the M-7 in the one lane hard packed trail. I gave him the Gade to try and we were off again. We went along until the trail met a plowed road. We knew this was coming and that it was the trail for about the next 40+ miles. While trying to find a spot to get over the plowed bank Jim sinks the 1000 Gade. We have all decided by this point that this it is hard work. Matt decided that he would stick to the M-7 and did not care for the Rev. The feeling is mutual. I would not have a 153” if they gave it to me. Down the trail we go to Gabbro and The Northen Light Lodge. We went to the one on the main trail. The other one is out in the bush. Bernard the owner’s brother is running the show. His brother is in Florida on vacation. We had coffee and breakfast. It was the best cup of coffee we had in many days. We talked to the groomer operator Jerry that had pulled in right behind us. He told us that they had just left camp and were headed back to Lab City. He let us know that we should have good trails all the way in from there. They had just groomed it coming out the day before. We quizzed him on the signage and trail conditions that we had been having. He explained that things are just getting going and that they really struggle with some of the community’s for support. He told us that Todd Kent president of the snowmobile club was working hard to get things changed. If these communities do not start running their machines and signing, that they were going to lose their funds. I offered to fly back and run one of the groomers for a week. He said no problem. They have been having a hard time to find drivers that was why one of the Lab City groomers was on the other side of Churchill Falls. Todd Kent has been running that groomer and has been out for three weeks. Bernard told us that it has been a very bad year for the Caribou and that he is not surprised that we had not seen any. Full of fuel and food we were off again. This trail was the best we had ridden since we left Port Cartier. Jerry the groomer driver asked us to swing up to the groomer shed in Esker Siding and make sure he shut the fuel to the heater off. We did. It was only12 miles out of the way. From there we run into town. The trails were great. As we got close to town a sled, coming the other way on the trail startled me to the point I almost ran off the trail. Wow, that was the first sled that we had met on the trail since we left L’anse-au-Clair 4 and half days ago. We have seen many sleds in and around these towns and villages but not on the trails. I dwelled on this thought, the rest of the way to Lab City. The reality of what we were doing was finally sinking in. We arrived in Lab City at 2:45pm. Once in town we got fueled up and headed to the ski-doo dealer. I had them check the code on my 800. I explained the seal to them and they got right on it. We were only there for about an hour. They did get me good for a belt however $190 Canadian. I wanted to have two spares before heading into the bush tomorrow. We got checked into our room. Matt fall’s back on to the dresser and states, “I’m not that tough after all.” Long before we ever left Jim tried and tried to get Matt to go ride with us for a couple days to sort of feel him out a little, and all Matt would say to him is “I’m tough don’t worry about it, I’m I great shape” That is where his comment came from. We settled in for a cocktail and I let him know that it was not over yet. Tomorrow was going to be a tough day. The Fermont to Port-Cartier trail was thought to be the toughest of the trip when we started. We went to the bar for a cocktail and then dinner. We went back to the room and Matt was out by 8:30pm. Jim and I reviewed our notes on the trail. We called the log yard to tell them we were coming and that we would need fuel. I called my wife with the number in case she did not hear from us. I then called gramps with the number because we would be back in Quebec and needed someone that could speak fluent French. It is hard to find someone that speaks English. Jim expressed his concern with this trail. I reviewed the facts that there was a bail out at Fire Lake. It is the only place the trail nears the road. We will be following along the R&R tracks south of Fire Lake. The log yard is in only 150 miles or so in, and the first 30 miles is groomed. From the log yard down to Port-Cartier is only 110 miles on a seasonal road that is easy to follow and near the tracks. The bad points are the lake we have to ride for many miles. The slob on the lake will be bad as it has been the whole trip. There is also a five-mile section that is all side hilling and you have to stand on the uphill running board to get thru. We have waypoints but no track. We are going to try it. We call for a 5:30am wake up. Off to bed.

Day11 March 10th
Overcast snowing 20F Lab City to Baie-Comeau 430 miles
We are up to early as I think that gas in Fermont is going to be a problem due to going back into Quebec and the 1-hour time change. We get and coffee and leave. We arrived in Fermont 45 mins before the gas station opened. While we waited for the gas station to open, Matt suggests that we have enough fuel to go to the log yard and do not need to top off with only 36 miles on. Jim and I are together on this one. We are not headed into the bush until we are full. The first 30 miles after gas were groomed to Relais Mazarin. Once we reached Relais Mazarin the find the trail game started again. It was not too bad as it was marked fairly well. Snowing a little harder now, we made our way to Fire Lake and crossed the tracks. This is where we made our first mistake. We spent to long looking for signs, not remembering that the signage ends at the tracks and we needed to continue by GPS. After 30 mins we did. Sure enough right on the waypoints down the power line we went. Snowing harder now and the gps is working slowly due to the snow. We continued. There had been so much snow since the last time any sled had been thru that you could not see any trail. When you are on it, you only sink 16” and when you are off its 4-5 feet deep. As we passed by the tracks it looked like sleds had crossed the bank. I knew we had to cross again before the lake so it seemed to make sense. So over we go after a few miles we had turned away from the next waypoint. I broke out the map and it showed that we should not have crossed the tracks so soon. We decided to turn around. All of us got stuck. In the process of getting, Matt’s sled out he finds a skid bolt half way out. The nut is missing but we can put it back in and keep an eye on it. Matt removed the tool kit and I notice that the bolt that goes threw the rotor to the diamond drive is broken and has been chewing a hole in the side cover. We looked over the sled, he was also missing a bolt from his rack on the tunnel. We get turned and go back to where we made the wrong turn and the debate starts. We were 50 miles from the log yard by trail, 25 miles back to Fire Lake and the road, and 90 miles back to Fermont. Matt and Jim wanted to go back to Fermont and call for the snow bus. I pointed out that if we did that we would sit there the rest of the day. If we could get a ride on Saturday, we would have to sit in Baie-Comeau until Sunday at 6pm for the boat. We would then have to get a room in Matane Sunday night, go to the truck on Monday and drive home late Monday night. There was no way I was doing that. I wanted to go south, so we compromised and backtracked to Fire Lake with the intent of running the road. It was snowing 1” every 45minutes at this point. We had jumped down a huge drift to get to where we were and we knew that it was going to be hard to get back up. Matt assured me I could not make it. We got there and Jim was in front of me. He decided that he would go first, and he would have made it if his sled had not died on him. While Jim was digging his sled out Matt found an easy way around. I did not try after the hole Jim made. It would have been tough. We reached the road and Matt was questioning my judgment. I was going to run the road south, so I suggested that if they wanted to it was 60 miles back to Fermont by road they could go. Jim and I ride many miles together and over the years he has learned to trust me if its seems reasonable. So south we go, down Route 389 at marker 480KM down to Gabriel at marker 317. We pull in and fuel up and everyone was looking at us. Just before we got there, a pickup truck went by us on the road. He was in the yard I told Matt to hit him up for a ride. He wanted all of us to get a ride together. So while they were out knocking on truck windows looking for a ride in a blizzard, I called the wife and told her our plans had changed. I ordered a coffee. The guys came in debating what to do next. I plainly and firmly let them know that I was not wasting time waiting for a ride and that when I was done eating I was riding my Ski Doo to Baie-Comeau and I would see them at the hotel. Matt who was nervous about his sled asked, “What if I break down?” If you break down, we will tow you or get you a ride, which he could have already done. We went down to Manic Five and the dam. It was an amazing sight. We fueled again and headed down the road to town. Another 294 miles on the road. We got to the hotel at 10pm. Matt went on the hunt for a skid bolt, which I am amazed he found. We called a cab to take us to our favorite restaurant in town only to find that they where closed. We decided to go to the Laundromat to dry gear, it was also closed. We opted to go to the pub down town for nachos and a cocktail or two. We went back to the room, hung gear to dry and went off to bed. We had a 5:30am wake up call. Day12 March 11th
Sunny 30F beautiful day 230 miles Baie-Comeau to Riviere-du-Loup
We went to Tim Hortons for a coffee, fill up on gas and headed off to Godbout. The trail was in great shape even after the rain that they had. This trail if you have never ridden it is very scenic on a clear day. We took our time and enjoyed the ride. We arrived in Godbout at 8:15 fueled up and had breakfast. We went over to catch the boat where we met two guys from Maine. They were on there way home from a 9-day 2600-mile ride to Ontario and back. They rode until 2am one day. Now that is hardcore. We were loaded on the boat on time and crossed over on time. We were looking at getting back to the truck by early evening. We got off the boat and headed down the trail. It is very warm. I stopped to take off my bibs. It was really warm. As we reached, Rimouski Jim decided to have a little fun and step up the pace for the first time this trip, so we did. Well it did not last for long before the 800 blew up 100 miles from completing the trip. Matt towed me to town while Jim went to get the truck. Matt and I hit the bar and had a couple of cocktails. Once Jim arrived, we called a cab and headed for dinner. Made it back to the room and called for a 5:30am wake up call.

Day13 March 12th
Sunny 35F
For the first time on the trip Matt was the first one up and ready to go. Over to Tim’s for coffee and down the road we go. Stopped in Jackman to drop off all the junk sleds and have lunch. Pulled in the door yard at 1:30pm



This was to be and was the trip of a lifetime. I wish our dear friend Dave could have made the trip after all the planning and miles that we have run as a group he was dearly missed. Congrats, on the birth of there first child the day we left her name is Emily.

At the on set of this trip I said that in ten years it would be the next Gaspesie if you will, I since have wavered back and fourth on that thought. Even with the best plans all, the groomers more signs, more food, and more services this will still be Labrador and the terrain and the weather patterns will always be tough. The conditions change very fast, faster than most people have ever seen. With all that said if some one hit it just right the whole way, they did not get a lot of snow between grooming, and then they would say that it is not that bad. I just do not think that it is possible in a span of travel that big. There is an older gentleman that makes this trip (Ice Route out of Cartwright and the snow bus out of Lab) ever year now for 4 o r5 years and I think that he now brings his wife. He travels in a large group of ten or more they take there time and hold up when the conditions COULD get bad. It takes them several weeks but they do it, in late March. Again, this is what I was told on the trip I have not spoken to this person, he is from Penn. I guess the point of all this is to show the contrast in this trip.

The highlights of the trip where the people and places that we traveled thru. Not the snowmobile that we would use to typical rate a trip.  After spending a little time in the region, you have to stop and wonder are they really that far out of pace with the rest of the world or do they choose to live a life style that supports family and community.

I would highly recommend this trip to a well-prepared advanced snowmobiler that can keep there cool in a jam. Be very careful whom you choose to go with you, it is easy to be a little rattled when the weather pins you. Take your time around the communities the signage is very poor. A GPS track is the only way to fly, I lost everything before Cartwright when Bruce loaded his tracks in so I am of no help there but the rest of the trip I have. Your mileage will depend on how much searching you have to do. With each year that passes this trip will get easier as they are working hard to promote the area.

I will close by saying that I do a lot of Ski-Dooin every year, as most of you know, by far this trip was the most physically draining, mentally draining, and emotional draining I have ever done. I will do it again maybe as soon as next year, but I will know what to expect now.

I would like to thank my wife and without her support, this trip would have never been possible.

Hope you can read this well enough to follow it

Early Rider
Robert Gardner

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by RoadRunner
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Thank you Rob.  This was fascinating to read.  The 2006 trip appears to have been much more difficult.  Maybe because it was the first attempt and you didn't know what you were going to encounter or the weather conditions were less favorable than the 2017 trip or maybe because there were only three of you.

Thanks for sharing the reality of a trip thru Labrador.

Jack & Sandi

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Spectacular!!!

Thanks every so much for sharing your experiences, surely is a trip of a life time. Not for your average snowmobiler for sure.

I would love to take a run up the Cote Nord coast to Labrador and back to get my feet wet, can I pick your brain?

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10 hours ago, Trailblazer said:

Spectacular!!!

Thanks every so much for sharing your experiences, surely is a trip of a life time. Not for your average snowmobiler for sure.

I would love to take a run up the Cote Nord coast to Labrador and back to get my feet wet, can I pick your brain?

TB absolutely, drop me a note and we can connect. Rob is also available, but somewhat limited he is headed back to Lab this week for another ride. RR

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rob + RoadRunner it has been a very interesting experience to follow this trip. It was the proverbial icing on the cake to have Rob's notes from the 2006 trip added at the end. Even without pictures, his daily recaps were the stuff that makes for a read you can't put down.

Something about these trips; where there aren't maps, markers or signage make them special. As was said, pre-planning is essential but measured, logical decision making skills, relying on each other, the luck of good weather, reliable equipment, and  local resources determine success or failure for these.

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  • 4 months later...

Anyone care to share some gps data along the Labrador coast. Labcity to sept isle area. Really getting into the exploring cross country vs playing mountains and powder etc. Have a lot of gps data for the area but always craving more. I'm from goose bay Labrador and this loop would be amazing to do. 

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