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God …I love this S;$T


snowmaster2112
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A lot has transpired since last post and most of it none for the good. Nautico in La Tuque drained and refilled sled 3 times and engine still overheats after startup. They said they dont have anymore time to look at it further till mid-March and I'm o.k. with that as I'm not willing to throw more good money at bad and want it back home. A little bit of luck yesterday a couple hours after finding that out. I just happen to hit eBay and searched "Skidoo 1200" . Not much has been on there lately. A guy out in Wisconsin who is a master BMW mechanic and owns a 200 acre tree farm parts out sleds and listed two different 1200 engines. Spoke with and made a deal offline for the 2013 with 2610 miles. Complete drop in. Stator, starter and all. $1950 shipped to my local business address. Motor was taken out of an extremely clean sled that had A arm and "S" module damage. So....i'm going to have a fun project over the summer, get to know my beloved Goldwing even more intimately, and hopefully come out with a good motor that has 10K less miles than now.

I WILL find out how much internal damage did happen as I'll tear it down after the new one is in. If it looks like it's fiscally fixable I might put it back together and sell it. If not I'll part it and scrap it.

So...mon ami Andre is saving my butt and lending me his sled this coming week. Pick that up in Sherbrooke, spend night, drop at Mattawin Sunday afternoon. Heading into camp for the night and then up around Haltaparche, Casey, Parent, Gouin, Clova, etc. pretty much all next week. If anyone is in the vicinity next week drop me a line and maybe we can hook up for lunch or something. 

As usual I will be posting conditions/pics and just try to keep up with my mentor Towing. 

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24 minutes ago, Byrd said:

Make sure that engine will work . Not sure but l think where is something different with wire drive throttle engines and the cable throttle engines. 

To my knowledge there is nothing different in the blocks or inside the engine. Will have to use my old old parts like intake and throttle body anyhow because this was out of an XR. Someone chime in if they know it wont work as I havnt given the guy a shipping address yet.   

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Sorry to read that your beloved Goldwing was even sicker than expected... I recognize the basic instinct of the real sledder you are that immediately engage the "solution mode" and solve all the problems that you were facing in the the best way to keep running!

A used young engine for your old girl is for sure the best solution as for $$$ and reliability and doing the job yourself will ensure a clean and meticulous swap job. When you will tear down your old engine, I suggest you start by inspecting the plastic gears drive that drive the water pump before going further... It would be my bet  

Congratulation to have found a way to be on the snow soon... mother nature is at work to prepare you the trails: snowing full sky right now! We had pretty much rain today at home but norther area got it more in snow and no doubts that the trails will be handsome in your playing fields next week 👍.

Have a safe ride my friend and enjoy!

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18 minutes ago, snowmaster2112 said:

To my knowledge there is nothing different in the blocks or inside the engine. Will have to use my old old parts like intake and throttle body anyhow because this was out of an XR. Someone chime in if they know it wont work as I havnt given the guy a shipping address yet.   

Flush the cooler in the reverse direction, before installing the new motor.

I was just talking with FarmerOld the other day and he had mentioned a part dislodged in his polaris' cooling system a few years back and caused several issues.

So just thinking if the motor is not cracked, thermostat is working, waterpump is not broken, something could be stuck in the cooling system. 

Later

GutZ

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8 hours ago, MrGutz said:

Flush the cooler in the reverse direction, before installing the new motor.

I was just talking with FarmerOld the other day and he had mentioned a part dislodged in his polaris' cooling system a few years back and caused several issues.

So just thinking if the motor is not cracked, thermostat is working, waterpump is not broken, something could be stuck in the cooling system. 

Later

GutZ

I have read about that too Gutz but thanks for reminding me. It will be challenging (and hopefully fun) diagnosing and finding out what went wrong. Thank God I have some serious professional gear heads in my inner circle of friends for support. 

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You might even think about flushing the cooler back wardards before pulling the existing engine or do a pressure test on the cooler to make sure it is flowing the coolent through it. If it has compression and passed a pressure test then maybe it is plugged and the coolent just isn't passing through the cooler.  There is something strange going on.  Only my opinions 

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2 hours ago, snowmaster2112 said:

I have read about that too Gutz but thanks for reminding me. It will be challenging (and hopefully fun) diagnosing and finding out what went wrong. Thank God I have some serious professional gear heads in my inner circle of friends for support. 

this sounds like a great summer project involving lots of captain and coke  👌 

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18 minutes ago, Blueblood said:

this sounds like a great summer project involving lots of captain and coke  👌 

Thats right !! Captain and Coke !!! Think I still owe you and the wife some. Your close. I'll come over with a 1.5 litre and the broken sled and we'll figure this thing out...LOL

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12 hours ago, MrGutz said:

Flush the cooler in the reverse direction, before installing the new motor.

I was just talking with FarmerOld the other day and he had mentioned a part dislodged in his polaris' cooling system a few years back and caused several issues.

So just thinking if the motor is not cracked, thermostat is working, waterpump is not broken, something could be stuck in the cooling system. 

Later

GutZ

I was with him when it happened. Was a stock restrictor in cooling line installed incorrectly from factory. Good point.

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Chris - an overheat situation with a known good thermostat, water pump, sensor, and good coolant levels kinda leaves only the piping and the heat exchanger. Kinda surprised the dealer wasn’t able to cure this for you. 
I would suggest a thermal imaging gun to check temps at different points in the system with it running. Just my opinion - 

Edited by vt_bluyamaha54
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1 hour ago, MrGutz said:

Chances are slim, how about a damaged but not punctured heat exchanger?

Restricts flow.

Maybe the little tail cooler behind\in front of the flap?

GutZ

All great tips guys. keep em coming. Appreciate the feedback. Heading up to Sherbrooke tomorrow in high winds and a little snow. ah....i'm used to that ...LOL

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I’ve built a few performance sleds and many custom heat exchangers, get the hoses off both sides of the sled up front and put a hose on one side and see if the tunnel flows, fast easy and simple to eliminate.hopefully by now somebody has taken the radiator cap off and verified no exhaust or compression leaking into the cooling system superheating the coolant. Has someone put a pressure tester on the cold engine to see if a crack is opening up under temperature and overpressurizing the cooling system and filling it with air causing a system to overcome the limit of the pressure cap and pumping it out on the ground… I’m with Alain on this one… I would really question how the water pump was tested… if they plastic drone gear in the block is damaged or an impellers is loose… something crazy here… I had a friend put coolant in and he dropped the aluminum seal from the container into the reservoir causing a restriction… that’s outside the box… I don’t want to say anything negative about any repairer…. But this is nuts and bolts… I’ve done this for nearly 50 years… and I never give up on a customer… hasn’t been looked at by the right guy

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10 hours ago, quebec bob said:

I’ve built a few performance sleds and many custom heat exchangers, get the hoses off both sides of the sled up front and put a hose on one side and see if the tunnel flows, fast easy and simple to eliminate.hopefully by now somebody has taken the radiator cap off and verified no exhaust or compression leaking into the cooling system superheating the coolant. Has someone put a pressure tester on the cold engine to see if a crack is opening up under temperature and overpressurizing the cooling system and filling it with air causing a system to overcome the limit of the pressure cap and pumping it out on the ground… I’m with Alain on this one… I would really question how the water pump was tested… if they plastic drone gear in the block is damaged or an impellers is loose… something crazy here… I had a friend put coolant in and he dropped the aluminum seal from the container into the reservoir causing a restriction… that’s outside the box… I don’t want to say anything negative about any repairer…. But this is nuts and bolts… I’ve done this for nearly 50 years… and I never give up on a customer… hasn’t been looked at by the right guy

Excellent points Bob. I had suggested the thermal gun because it is quick and easy - and I would expect the dealer would do this after the parts replacements didn’t solve it but who knows. 
No mention of coolant showing up anywhere externally so I’m betting on someone overlooking water pump function or a restriction in the cooling system. 

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