Je me souviens Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 I was considering it may be time to do a little preventative maintenance on the ole girl. She has 5500 miles, and I have heard numerous times that the clutch is the weakest link on the 1200's. I was thinking about getting a cookie cutter kit that most likely will include the primary spring, still need to do a little investigating as to what kit I will likely purchase. However once I have made that decision, I think I should replace some of the parts inside the clutch. So far my list consists of: new arms, rollers, buttons, the cotter pins. What else do you think I should consider? Maybe the ramps, I am missing something else? Please advise if you have any insight on this, thank you. If you think about it, why would SD revise the primary set-up to include 6 arms rather than 3 for MY '13, must be they know that the system was not working. I would much rather do preventative maintenance in the garage at 70 degrees, than repairs mid trip in the cold with no tools and no garage at my disposal. On another note, thanks to all who have posted their trip reports this year, I love reading peoples experiences and looking at their pics. Gotta love the site Rob put together for us to share here, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGutz Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Bill was saying on DooTalk that Skidoo will swap your clutch for the new one for 495, or less if you have a good relationship with your dealer. Later GutZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 1 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 As Gutz said they are replacing, PB80 I believe, about $500 ramps wear and it sounds like a gradual thing as opposed to instant unless an arm breaks. I had an arm break in my 800 it was like it was stuck in high gear...Agree with warm weather maintenance instead of trailside... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGutz Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 X2 on the warm weather maintance. Got the parts to build Longhairs 800, block, crank, cases, watrer jacket, pistons, etc.... GutZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trailblazer Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 X2 on the warm weather maintance. Got the parts to build Longhairs 800, block, crank, cases, watrer jacket, pistons, etc.... GutZ You guys doing the work yourselves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
800steve Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 At 7000 miles my clutch looked bad, faces were worn badly. I bought a brand new take off from a guy on Doo talk that put a pb 80 on his sled for 200.00$ Beats a rebuild and I think you can find one if you look around. 200.00$ for 7000 miles seems like a good deal to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsmoke1 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 get about 3 bucks for it in scrap then buy a pb 80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saguenay Bill Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I took mine apart last year, 4400 miles. Ramps were worn, replaced ramps and new buttons. It was under warranty. This year at 8400 miles I replaced ramps and but in the new buttons that SD is recommending. Cost was around $75. Didn't have tp replace rollers. I will take it apart next month, April, and see what I need to replace after after another 4,000 miles. If all I have to replace is ramps and buttons, that's all I'll do. Can't justify spending $495 or more for a PB 80 when I can spend less than $100 to rebuilt a clutch every 4,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revct1 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I heard the PB 80s are a little smoother engaging and they require less maintenance. I think that is the reason Doo is going to the six arm clutch for next year. Doo also claims it will last longer between rebuilds than the three arm but I would think it will cost twice as much to rebuild because there are six arms instead of three. Sandi's 1200 was rebuilt at the beginning of last season and it ran fine, 6,000 miles. My 800 e-tec clutch was done at the beginning of the season and then needed to be rebuilt in the middle of the season. The ramps had notches worn in them. From our experience, the 1200 does not eat up the clutch as fast as the 800 e-tec. Looking at the parts, it was pretty obvious as to what needed to be replaced. Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGutz Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 You guys doing the work yourselves? We are (I Am), I have a Motor Shop 5 miles from my house and they are assisting me with some of the machining and such. They do cranks and blocks and porting. I just want a good reliable engine. I was able to pick up the pieces cheaper than a short block. I'm into the engine for about 1800 (Skidoo wanted between 2200-3100 Plus 800-1000 Core, I had no core-able parts). The last thing that I need to have done is the replating of the block. Thanks GutZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revct1 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Good to hear it is taking shape. Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trailblazer Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 We are (I Am), I have a Motor Shop 5 miles from my house and they are assisting me with some of the machining and such. They do cranks and blocks and porting. I just want a good reliable engine. I was able to pick up the pieces cheaper than a short block. I'm into the engine for about 1800 (Skidoo wanted between 2200-3100 Plus 800-1000 Core, I had no core-able parts). The last thing that I need to have done is the replating of the block. Thanks GutZ From my past experience with an engine blowing repeatatively, my advise to you Don, once you have the engine assembled perform a leak test. This test will ensure it is properly sealed and will eliminate the risk of leaning out. Good luck JG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrGutz Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 This one has never blown, till now, and I think it would have run for 5k more if the damn fuel pump diaphram (.99 part) had not torn. It was weird, last year it ran great but it was only getting 10mpg..... So as summer appraoched I started looking all over for the issue, because it also started dumping fuel on the ground when it warmed up outside. I thought it had a bad clamp or hose or valve and seat in the carb. I did a compression test and found one side at 135-140 and the other 90-95. Aha! Tore into the top end, found the mag piston was beat up bad it looked like from a looong time ago (at least a season). The rings were good (they moved, nothing missing). Cylinder needed a quick hone and some acid to clean up the scares. Two new pistons, all new hoses and shazzam! I puddle appeared under the sled again.... I had Longhair blow into the tank as hard as he could and little fountain came out of the pump. I removed the pump and blew into hose ends and there was no blow-by... took it apart and found the diaphram torn just a little pin hole. It's an 09!! Anyways .. replaced the pump and started it up (Electric Start). So at this point (as far as we were able to determine)the new pistons sealed the top, pumped the gas that had filled the crankcase, to the top of the cylinder and the piston tried to compress a liquid. The rod compressed and twisted very slitely. If we had snow it would have come apart during testing... but the Gaspe trip was the testing, it was already wrecked we just did not know it. The Mach on the other hand.... Ask Eddie and 420, May-POPs (Will Pop...tick tick tick...). Later GutZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFARJM Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 George, I started to have shifting, not engaging, problems on my 2011 gsx se 1200 at about 4700 miles. It would not upshift unless I reved to 65 then let of throtle for a second and hold at 60. Around 5000 mi. I couldn't hold over 45 mph. Took secondary apart without opening chain case, cleaned and put back on. No visable wear. Primary was removed using water trick. I found deep grooves in ramps that would hold rollers preventing upshift. Replaced them for $50 including shipping. Cleaned with brake cleaner and air. All other parts were ok. Clutches worked great for last trip, 1000 miles on Gaspe'. Didn't need any special tools or pullers. SD has lightened primary clutch for 2013 and added more ramps. Have fun and still hoping for one more ride this season, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Je me souviens Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Thanks to everyone that had input. Another reason I really love this site, all good stuff here. I think ramps, rollers and buttons should do it for now. Once I have it apart I will know for sure. You guys ever see the vids Mark has on you tube? He times himself doing maintenance, I think we should get Greg and the rest of his crew to push for a clutch rebuild video from Mark. If he wants to set the time clock that would be cool. That way I know how slow I really am compared to the pros, lol Where is the Yellowstone report from Greg anyway? Last year we got a great sneak peek, with real time updates, this year all is hush hush. I looked for one of the vids I am referring to, but there is so much on you tube I don't have an hour to sift, perhaps someone remembers Mark's channel so we can tune in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sled Dog Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I think I'm going to go with a PB80. I put 2700 miles on my 2012 Renegade this season, no problems with the clutch and it seems to work perfectly and doesn't rattle....But if something were to happen to it next year the $500.00 price tag on it would be cheap if I'm in the middle of nowhere in Quebec on vacation. I'm still struggling with the decision cause $500.00 aint cheap and 'if it isn't broke, don't fix it' but it seems the clutch is the weak point on these sleds. All my research shows people with the original clutch having more problems than people with the PB80. My sled is still under warranty so I may take it to dealer and have them check out clutches. Maybe I can get another year out of it!! See, I'm wavering back and forth!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dooright Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Thanks to everyone that had input. Another reason I really love this site, all good stuff here. I think ramps, rollers and buttons should do it for now. Once I have it apart I will know for sure. You guys ever see the vids Mark has on you tube? He times himself doing maintenance, I think we should get Greg and the rest of his crew to push for a clutch rebuild video from Mark. If he wants to set the time clock that would be cool. That way I know how slow I really am compared to the pros, lol Where is the Yellowstone report from Greg anyway? Last year we got a great sneak peek, with real time updates, this year all is hush hush. I looked for one of the vids I am referring to, but there is so much on you tube I don't have an hour to sift, perhaps someone remembers Mark's channel so we can tune in It's easy ! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aNFCnwCdWk&feature=relmfu http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJiVipfe0Wo&feature=relmfu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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